grey_snail_press

Den Update with Grasscloth Wallpaper

Sun, 06 Apr 2025 03:51:22 GMT

Rifle Paper Co Wallpaper

I've used Scott Living peel-and-stick wallpaper a couple of times already, so I didn't hesitate at all to try it in our den. I had previously used a checked pattern from Magnolia, but I was ready for a change and wanted something that meshed well with our bold kitchen wallpaper from Rifle Paper Co.

The wall color is from Sherwin Williams new color line--Cream and Sugar. They have so many pretty neutrals, and this one had everything I was looking for. It was a light, warm tan, providing a little more color than the SW Creamy, which blended right in with the fireplace.

Grasscloth

I loved the paint color and considered going with paint only this go around, but I really wanted some texture on the tv wall. Scott Living has faux grasscloth peel-and-stick wallpaper at Lowes. It's great because it has a little texture to it, so it looks more like actual grasscloth.

Here's a wallpaper tip: never start in the corner. Your corners are not straight! Start with a straight line, so you know your paper isn't going to be crooked--if you start crooked, it just gets worse as you go across the wall. I like to start against a door/window, so that's one less funky piece I have to cut around.

I've done peel-and-stick several times now, and it's something you get better at and become more skilled. This took me a couple of hours to complete and I worked around the television, instead of taking it down.

Once I got everything painted and wallpapered, I updated a few other things, too. I added these gorgeous blue cabbage plates by Southern Living Home at Dillards. They also have them in white, pink and green! They are reasonably priced and so pretty. I've always struggled with that long wall above the couch. I really that like the plates take your eye up the wall. So long, awkward blank space! I even painted the mats a creamy tan, so they aren't quite as stark of a white.

Oh, and I LOVE my rug. It's a washable rug by Feizy and I think it's my favorite I've ever had in here. To me, it's modern traditional, but a little bit western. I'm not sure that makes sense, but the main thing is I like it.

My best advice for picking out wallpaper is to decide what type you want to use first: removable or permanent. I have always had anything permanent professionally installed, which has been worth it for me. I have done peel-and-stick many times, and while it's not what I'd describe as an "easy" diy, it's also not impossible. Geometric patterns are most difficult, and anything with the look of grasscloth has been easy for me. I like to try several different patterns with different scale and colors. I can usually eliminate a few quickly and then keep my favorites up for a few days to help me decide. It's nice to see them at all times of day, kind of like paint colors. I also like to consider the connecting rooms and house overall when choosing a pattern. I like how this pattern looks in the kitchen, as well as the den.

These are the white version of the Southern Living plates above our couch. The fireplace is the same--I used Romabio Lime Slurry to make that over a few years ago and it looks as good as the day I did it. You can see I've collected a lot of blue and white pieces.

New Paragraph

Girl's Bedroom Makeover with Serena & Lily Priano Wallpaper

Sun, 06 Apr 2025 02:47:42 GMT

Space Planning

On e of my main objectives for this project was to get the bed away from the wall. It is so difficult to make the bed when one side is against the wall, and this room has plenty of space, so this was a priority. From there, I needed to plan some play areas for the Barbie and LOL Houses, along with a place for her dresser.

Rug & Bedding

It was kind of a no-brainer for me to select this rug. It's Rifle Paper Co Eden Lattice in Ivory and ties everything together in here so well. It's Loloi's CloudPile, so it's super soft--perfect for playtime. I have it in another color in our master bedroom and like it in navy, too.

As you can see, I've changed up the bedding a little bit. I kept it simple and chose a Better Homes & Gardens comforter from Walmart, and paired it with mint oxford sheets from Pottery Barn Kids. I love the ruffle detail on the top sheet and pillowcases. The dust ruffle and shams are vintage 90s Ralph Lauren from Ebay and the quilt on the end of the bed is another Ebay find--a brand new Serena & Lily quilt with tassels. I love finding things in unexpected places or thinking out of the box to get the look I want.

It's taken a while to put everything together, but that's kind of the fun of it for me.

I only used wallpaper on one wall, so I found a coordinating white for the rest of the room. It was so much more economical to just do an accent wall and I liked keeping it nice a bright with a white. I believe the color is SW Greek Isle.

New Paragraph

Rifle Paper Co. Kitchen Wallpaper

Sun, 06 Apr 2025 02:13:21 GMT

Rifle Paper Co Wallpaper

You know I love wallpaper! I've gone through some phases in our kitchen, but it was time for something more permanent. I put up peel-and-stick wallpaper here . I liked the simplicity of the white geometric pattern, but I kept being drawn to something bolder. I've always been attracted to Rifle Paper Co patterns (I love their rugs) and know their wallpaper is great quality, so I started my search there.

I absolutely love the Rifle wallpaper I used in our laundry room. It comes unpasted, so I always use a professional for installation. An amazing lady does all mine and she is so fast, I can hardly believe it! She is so talented! Maybe someday I'll learn to do it myself.

Since this wasn't a total remodel, I needed to work with the existing permanent parts of the kitchen. We have a mix of black lower and white upper cabinets, with some grey pantry cabinets, and hardwood floors. The backsplash is tiny marble tiles, so it's all very neutral, but didn't really lend itself to something navy. I stuck with something in the neutral color palette.

Pomegranate Black & Linen

After taping up samples for a couple weeks and living with them, I finally selected Rifle Paper Co Pomegranate in Black & Linen . I have to say when it first went up, it was so busy and bold, I questioned myself for a minute--lol! Once I started hanging up stuff on the walls again, I fell in love! I really couldn't love it more!

DIY Designer Dupe: Add Trim Tape to Curtains

Fri, 02 Feb 2024 21:49:19 GMT

Designer Drapes

Custom drapes are a luxury item, but there's no reason you can't copy the look without breaking the bank. Pinch pleat curtains are typically my favorite, and there are a lot of great options out there. Amazon carries the Two Pages brand and I've found those to be great quality. I have them in my living room currently. These are the linen-look unlined pinch pleat curtains I chose.

If you're looking for curtains to use in a bedroom, I recommend using something lined for privacy or blackout. Blackout curtains basically turn your bedroom into a hotel room, where almost zero light is peeking through--we love ours . I also found them on Amazon and they come in a variety of colors. I hung ours directly using the rod pocket, instead of pins/hooks, because I could still get the lovely pleated look and didn't have to hem, at all, which leads me to the next topic--making curtains work when you don't sew!

I don't sew, so I'm always looking for a hack to use as a substitute for actual sewing skills. I have found that iron-on hem tape works for hemming curtains. You just iron it on and fold up the hem to the correct length. I have found it's not always easy to get it to stick well, though. I'd say mine are JUST good enough to get by.

Curtain Trim Tape

I have grown to love the look of curtains with trim, and scoured the internet to find something I loved that wasn't super expensive. This is what I ordered off Etsy. I also got samples of this and this . Our ceilings are 8', and the curtains are hung almost to the top, so I ordered four 96" lengths so I'd have a little extra. It arrived as one single roll, which ended up being just fine.

No Sew

I knew I didn't' want to try to use the testy hem tape for this project. I'd originally assumed I'd take them down off the rods, but after researching, I learned that others preferred to attach the trim while the curtains were hanging. Starting at the top of the curtain panel, I used a strong fabric glue to run a bead along the outer edges, and a single bead down the middle of the trim. I had approximately a 2" overhang at the top and simply folded it over to the back, and pressed the trim down on the curtain, carefully keeping the outer edge of the trim lined up with the outer edge of the curtain. I worked down the curtain in 12-18" sections, keeping everything lined up along the edge well. When I reached the bottom, I cut the tape with about 2" of excess, and wrapped it under the bottom, folding the trim under and gluing it on the back of the hem. It took almost the entire bottle of glue for all four panels.

And that's literally it! It's one of the easiest and most impactful DIY projects I've ever done! The hardest part is choosing your trim, and I have a couple tips on that:

1. If you have pinch-pleats, measure the distance from the edge of the curtain panel to the first pleat. I would get trim equal or smaller in width than that measurement, so it will lay nicely.

2. Consider the background color of the trim in relation to your curtain. My trim worked perfectly for these curtains, because it's neutral background was very similar to my beige curtains. White might have been to stark for this particular curtain.

3. Order more than you actually need. Measure what you need and add at least 4" per panel to that number. You want to be able to fold it over when you attach, and it's better to pay for a little more initially that have to order a whole extra set later.

I hope you'll try this project and please tag me @grey.snail.press if you share it, because I'd love to see!

The links I shared on Amazon are affiliate links and I do receive a small amount of compensation if you choose to purchase from those links.

Rugs in my House

Wed, 24 Jan 2024 20:58:04 GMT

Rug Roundup January 2024

My love of rugs is no secret, and over the years I have gotten pretty good at finding rugs I love at great prices. I also love helping others pick out rugs for their space, because, well, I can't buy EVERYTHING for my house! I'd love to share some tips for finding a rug you love.

Most of the rugs currently in our home are by Loloi. I adore their collaborations with Rifle Paper Co., Chris Loves Julia, Amber Lewis and Angela Rose Home. I highly recommend checking out those lines if you're in the market for a rug. Different lines offer different textures. My hands down, absolute favorite are the CloudPile rugs--it feels quite literally like you are walking on a cloud. SO soft! However, I also enjoy printed rugs with no pile, too. I find that works well in our high-traffic laundry/mud room. Those are more like a mat and aren't plush, but they definitely have their place. I really enjoy the texture some of the Loloi x Amber Lewis rugs have--they aren't totally smooth and flat like some, but have kind of a thin, knobby texture that looks so beautiful in a room.

I recommend going as large as you can with a rug. For years, I always bought an 8x10 or just under for our den, but when I got an 8.5x11.5, it looked so much better and really settled the room. I've tried to do the same in other areas. I recently purchased an 11x15 Loloi x Angela Rose Home rug for our living room. It covers virtually all the room, but it looks so much better than a smaller rug in that large room.

And, of course, shop around! For Loloi rugs, I always check Amazon, Wayfair and Rugs-Direct. They will run different sales throughout the year, and at any given time, one is usually cheaper than the other. RugsUSA and Boutique Rugs are also great places to look for beautiful, quality rugs.

Foyer & Laundry

This Loloi rug is by Rifle Paper Co. and is super thin with no pile. I love it for an entry and an area you're not going to be sitting on the floor. The no pile Maison rug is also great in our laundry room that's very high-traffic. I got ours at HomeGoods for about half the retail price, but it's still a great deal online if you can't find one locally.

Den

I just switched to this Amber Lewis x Loloi CloudPile rug and I am such a fan. I love the softness of the rug in there and the colors are so pretty. It's so cozy!

Girl's Rug

I love this Rifle Paper Co Eden rug so much, I own it in another colorway! It's CloudPile, so perfect for a kid's room. It's just as gorgeous in person and I love how sweet and fun it is.

Boy's Room

Boys' rooms are a little trickier, but I found the perfect masculine rug from Chris Loves Julia's Humphrey collection with Loloi. It's CloudPile, so I really couldn't pass it up, but the colors are just perfece and would look good in so many places.

Master Bedroom

You can see I wasn't kidding, and I actually do have this rug in our house twice. I love the navy version, too, and recently moved it into the bedroom. It had been in the living room, and I needed a larger rug in there, and this one only goes up to 8x11.

Den

I just switched out the rug in our den for an Amber Lewis x Loloi Morgan Cloudpile rug . The colors are saturated and perfect and it's softness makes it over-the-top.

Dining Room

I picked up this rug at HomeGoods (another great place to find rugs). I don't have a link, but it is Surya.

Living Room

This Angela Rose Home Ember rug is massive at 11x15. I love its understated, geometric pattern. All rugs don't come in these large sizes, so your choices are usually a little smaller with oversized rugs.

Christmas Market

Mon, 15 Jan 2024 20:49:49 GMT

Booth at Christmas Market

I was asked to participate in a local Christmas market with different vendors in early December, and thought it would be something fun and different, so I said yes. I brought a variety of large paintings, with mostly smaller, giftable items I'm going to share here.

I have a mix of traditional and non-traditional Christmas colors, and lots of acrylic pieces on small canvases. I also created some watercolor chinoiserie trees and plants with hand-torn deckled edges I floated in glass, gold-rimmed frames.

My larger items took some inspiration from coastal art, even though we are very inland. I also had plenty of florals, too.

Peel and Stick Grasscloth Wallpaper

Thu, 31 Aug 2023 17:28:32 GMT

Grasscloth

I love the look of genuine grasscloth wallpaper. In fact, my grandma had it in her den my entire childhood and it wasn't until recently, I even noticed it again. I had wanted to use in in my laundry room originally, but learned it's not a great choice for all areas. I don't think it's the best in a bathroom, with the moisture; and a laundry room can be notoriously dusty and the texture picks all that up. So, if you love the look, but real grasscloth isn't practical or in the budget, you should definitely look into faux.

Color wise, I didn't find anything I fell in love with online, so I ran by Lowe's and found some peel-and-stick options. The first blue I found was darker than I wanted and the "texture" looked really fake. Imagine a photocopy of grasscloth printed flat on paper. Then, I found another display with The Scott Brothers/Property Brothers' products on the other side of the aisle. They had several color choices for grasscloth, and theirs has 3D texture! Not only does the pattern look realistic, it has "stitches" that are texturized and make it look so much more like actual grasscloth. This was the exact product and color I purchased.

Measuring

I needed three rolls for my project. It would have been better to have gotten four, so I had full strips for each piece. But, they only had three rolls in stock and they were all from the same color lot, so it had to do. I pieced a couple of the middle strips together, but I'm planning on always having a piece of furniture there, so it wasn't a problem. Basically, it's probably better to have more than you think you need.

You can read more about my experience putting up peel-and-stick wallpaper here .

Overall Review

Overall, I'm really happy with the result and the quality of the product. I did get a couple paper cuts peeling the backing off the sticky paper, so be careful there! Remember, with grasscloth, you ARE going to see the seams--that's okay! You didn't do anything wrong. It kind of adds to its charm, in my opinion. I even took the time to cover my exposed outlet with the paper!

It took me less than two hours to complete and really changed the look of our foyer without a huge cost or effort. Give it a try and send me a photo if you do!

How to Drill into Tile EASILY

Tue, 09 May 2023 02:35:14 GMT

What not to do

Drilling into tile is easy if you have the right tools. It took me a little--a lot--of trial and error to figure it out. Do NOT drill into tile with a normal drill bit. It will crack.

I tried to use a diamond bit, but a diamond bit is shaped like a hollow cylinder on the end--there's no point. If you're drilling into slick tile, it's really tough to get it to catch and start grinding away at the tile. In fact, I never really got it. I think it would be easier if you were drilling into tile on the ground, but there's no easy way to stabilize it on the wall. I think you could create a template out of a piece of wood, but that's still an extra step.

Measure Carefully!

With drywall, if you mess up on where you drill a hole or nail into the wall, it's no big deal. It's easy to patch. But with tile, you want to measure until you are sure you have your spot right, then measure again. For me, I was putting shelves on the wall, and one support was going to be in the stud, and the other was going into the drywall, so it needed a drywall anchor to support it.

Once I had my holes marked with a permanent marker, I got out my drill bit. This bit required the RPMs on my drill to be turned down a little, but that was a matter of just drilling slower. It cut through the tile with ease. Here is a picture of the exact bit I used. It comes in various sizes, so just get something that works for you.

Drywall Anchors

Select the correct drywall anchors for your hole size, and gently hammer them into the wall.

Once the anchors are in, you can put your bracket back up and tighten your screws. Be sure to not over tighten them--it will crack the tile. Don't ask me how I know.

Romabio Velatura Mineral Wash

Tue, 24 Jan 2023 21:06:54 GMT

Romabio Velatura Mineralwash

I was so excited to see Romabio's new product debut-- Velatura Mineralwash . It's an easy, two-step process that can transform an interior room into something similar to old world plaster. However, since it was brand new, there weren't a lot of examples online of people using it in the real world, so I went old school and called the company with questions. The lady from Romabio was so helpful in providing guidance on how to use the product.

If you choose a dark color, you can use the same color for both steps; but if you choose a lighter shade, you need to select a darker shade for the first coat if you want to have more movement in the final product. I did want that movement, so I selected two ready-made colors from Amazon--Riposo Beige and Bianco White.

Two-Step Process

Mineralwash requires no primer. For the first coat, I used a 3" brush and made crosshatch strokes with my brush across the walls, overlapping a little. It's okay if you can see the original wall color a little behind it. The trickiest part was the edge, and I just cut it in similar to how I would with latex paint. I brushed out those lines so there were no harsh edges.

I let all that dry overnight, then mixed the lighter Bianco White with water with a paint stirrer. I started with 50% water, but found that was too opaque for the look I wanted, so I went with 80% water. That way, I could still easily see the Riposo beige underneath while getting plenty of movement on the walls. It's a little messy because the mineralwash is so thin, so it's easy to sling it across the room. I just tried to be careful and cover the floors with a dropcloth.

Dining Room

I absolutely love how this project turned out and how it brightened up our dining room! I'd love to use it again in a dark color. I should add you can get custom colors mixed, too. I love that there's basically no prep. I did fill in larger nail and screw holes, but if your holes are pretty small, the full-strength mineral wash does a pretty good job of filling in on it's own.

Since the drawers on this were beveled on every edge, I had to use some sort of moulding to create a "box" for my fluting aka dowels to set against. Many of the examples I saw of these types of drawers/furniture were flat front drawers, so it took some brainstorming to figure out how to make it work. I got a piece of ornamental moulding from a big box hardware store and used my mitre box and saw to cut it to the correct lengths. I created "boxes" or "frames" with the chunky side of the moulding on the interior, so the dowels wouldn't be higher than the trim.

I actually made a lot of mistakes during this part. Measure twice, cut once, anyone? Well, angles give me fits and I kept cutting the wrong direction, so I wasted quite a bit. I ended up using two pieces of 8' moulding for these two drawers. I still wonder if I could've gotten by with one. I used wood glue to attach, carefully fitting each together in the corners. I taped it down well with painter's tape and left it to dry for a couple hours.

Fluted Nightstand DIY

Thu, 13 Oct 2022 23:11:53 GMT

Fluted Wood Furniture

I can't remember the first example of fluted wood furniture I saw, but it was probably either this gorgeous custom wood bathroom vanity from Chris Loves Julia , or the DIY fluted coffee table Fariha shared on Pennies for a Fortune . The custom cabinetry was done professionally using a router for each line, which isn't something I possess the skills to do. This did help inspire the colors I used in our bathroom remodel, though! I really connected to the method Fariha used to build the coffee table--wooden dowels. What a fabulous idea!

Nightstand Makeover Makeover

I actually already made over this nightstand before. It started as my husband's old Ashley nightstand, and I never cared for the lines or hardware, so I changed it! I transformed it into a faux bone inlay chest , but it hit me recently that it would be the perfect piece to try out adding fluted drawers.

Prep

Ugh--I really hate prep work, but it sure does make a difference in the final result, so here I am sanding the surface a little bit with my electric sander. It took all of 5 minutes and took some of the texture off, along with the sheen from the varnish. The paint went on much smoother because of this simple step.

Once everything was secure and dry, I measured the distance between the moulding and cut the dowels to length. Again, I used a hand saw, and cut them together in bunches by taping them in a row. An extra set of hands makes this go much faster. I did sand the cut ends so they were neat--or, if I cut them a *little* too long and needed to shave off a bit. I attached each with wood glue and let them dry.

After the glue dried, I caulked any gaps in the moulding, along with gaps at the top and bottom of the dowels. I did have a couple gaps in between the dowels that needed a little caulk, but it totally camouflaged it once it was painted.

I painted it Sherwin Williams Woodland Lichen--a medium to dark green, and finished it off with a couple coats of my favorite varnish--Liquitex. It got a pair of gold knobs, and I absolutely love how it turned out and I'm definitely going to keep this nightstand a little longer. Who knows if it will change again?!

Upcycled Canvas Art

Mon, 14 Feb 2022 23:08:31 GMT

Room Refresh

I did a little refresh in our daughter's room, and I decided we needed some large-scale art. I actually planned to order a print, but inspiration struck on a trip to HomeGoods when I saw two HUGE framed canvases on clearance for $25 and $9. I grabbed them up and headed home, with my head filled with ideas on what to do with them.

Rethinking the Artwork

I didn't particularly care for either print, but they were nice canvases with great frames. First, I used FrogTape to cover the wood frames. Then, I used acrylic paint to cover up the pictures. I used a 2.5" brush to spread out paint I squirted all over the canvas. It took a couple coats. I wanted texture underneath my paintings, so I did a kind of slip-slap all over the canvas, painting back and forth in different directions. Once that was dry, it was time to add my art.

I wanted to do a large landscape, so I used the largest canvas for that. For the other painting, I did a floral painting. You could also do something more abstract. The important thing is, if you mess up or don't like it, you can always paint over it again. I actually did on my original floral painting. I didn't like how it was looking so I started again from scratch. No big deal.

I used acrylic paint for both of mine. I added oil pastel on top of the floral. I sealed it with a spray varnish.

The great part about upcycling an old painting is that it is so much cheaper than buying and framing a canvas. I do this a lot with framed art prints . Definitely give this a try--you'll be pleased!

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Peel-and-Stick Wallpaper

Mon, 14 Feb 2022 22:48:49 GMT

Peel-and-Stick Wallpaper

I love peel-and-stick wallpaper so much! It's an easy, DIY fix for any space that just needs a little refresh. Because it's easily removeable, I feel much more confident going ahead and choosing a pattern. I struggle to commit to traditional pasted wallpaper--I think it's because we removed so much of it when we bought our house. It is no easy task. Peel-and-stick is also very economical, so if you decide to change it up a few years down the line, it doesn't feel so bad.

I've now put it in four areas of our house. Today, you'll see the kitchen and den. It's the same pattern in different colors. I love how much the simple pattern really just makes each space.

Kitchen

I wanted to do something light in here that would go well with our very neutral (black, white, and gray) kitchen. This simple pattern did just the trick. It's by Magnolia Home and is great quality. Just know if you're working with a more geometric pattern, it's VERY important to be sure to line up every strip correctly--or you'll have a huge slanted line going across your wall. It's still relatively easy on a blank wall with no windows, doors or openings. It gets a little more challenging when rounding corners and cutting around openings. You can see a more organic (easier) pattern in our laundry room here .

Never start the edge of the roll in the corner. Your corners are not square. Overlap a couple inches of paper and cut the edge with a razor blade. This will make your corners LOOK straight. And do the same thing at the top. Overlap the ceiling or trip a little and cut off the excess. You'll get a much more professional result.

Den

After I did the kitchen, I decided I wanted to do the wall where our tv is mounted. It was a relatively easy job--I didn't even take down the television. I got the wallpaper as close to the mount as I could and you can't tell it's not perfect behind there. I think this is the only grey color we have in our house now--when we moved in, we had three rooms! I love the pattern behind the television and on this wall. It makes the long, narrow room seem wider and really cozy. I went with the same Magnolia Home pattern from USWallDecor.com in grey and white .

It was really fun to make sure a big change withou t a huge mess or commitment. If I decide to change it up later, it's going to be super easy.

Free Fall Art Download

greysnailpress@live.com (Jenni Jarvis) — Fri, 01 Oct 2021 23:46:12 GMT

Free Fall Wall Art Digital Download

Just for fun, here's a freebie--a digital download for some fall wall art! This quote is from Anne of Green Gables. I still want to read the book, but I was a huge fan of the series Anne with an E on Netflix. Just click on the file, download it and print it at home or send it to a place like Office Depot. Happy October!

Laundry Room Peel-and-Stick Wallpaper Update

Wed, 15 Sep 2021 22:13:24 GMT

Laundry Room Before

I switched some things around in the house, and needed a spot for one of my favorite rugs from the Chris Loves Julia x Loloi collection. The current laundry rug was getting a little worn and it was the perfect space for another 5x7 rug, so the Oriental Natural/Ocean Area Rug had a new home. The problem was, it wasn't really meshing well with the existing black and white palette in there, so I decided to nix the hand painted mudcloth accent wall . You can also see the before of the laundry room in the post.

Wallpaper

I knew I wanted to do peel-and-stick wallpaper, because for a DIY project, it's much easier and doesn't require any real skill to get a good result. It's also totally removable, which is a huge plus! I know from personal experience that removing wallpaper is one of the most difficult tedious tasks. After searching online, I found a gorgeous classic pattern at Home Depot that I loved that blended perfectly with the colors of the rug. It was only $34.99/roll and one roll covered just over 30 square feet. Shipping was fast and I was able to start a few days later.

Installing

Since I was doing a very small wall, I started on the left side, but if you were doing a larger space, you should start in the middle. I began in the top left corner and lined up the top of the roll with the ceiling and corner and peeled about 12 inches of the backer off at a time, smoothing out the bubbles as I went with a putty knife. Looking back, it would have been better to let the left side of the paper overlap the corner a few inches and cut it later, because walls are never totally straight. By the time I got to the bottom, closer to the floor, there was a little gap that I had to deal with later. I could have saved myself some hassle with this simple fix.

When I got to the bottom, I used a sharp utility knife to cut off the excess paper. For the next row, I simply lined the pattern up, cut off the excess at the top, smoothed as I went down and cut it at the bottom. You should overlap the pattern about 1/16" to account for shrinking. Of course, you have to cut around any doors or windows, which is a little bit of a challenge, but nothing too hard.

This project probably took me about 1.5-2 hours to complete by myself. It could be a little quicker if you had another hand.

I absolutely love this soft, beautiful pattern! I also made some other easy updates by switching out some of the art, changing out the hooks for hanging and adding a new mirror.

I got some new printable vintage art prints from Westwoven on Etsy and had them printed at Office Depot. It was only about $12 for a 16x20 print! The cool wood hooks with leather accents are so great! I love having a mirror by the door--it's been surprisingly useful and bonus--it was a great price at Target! Seriously, it's gorgeous and I could see using it so many other places.

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Beauty Gift Guide - 2021

Tue, 14 Sep 2021 01:57:47 GMT

Beauty Gift Guide 2021

Beauty is pretty much my favorite category. Kind of like the Liger is pretty much my favorite animal. Twist my arm a little and I'll be buying everything at the make up counter. Watch some online contouring tutorials, I'll try a whole new system of foundation. I have tried a lot. A LOT, a lot. So, when I say these are my absolute favorite, can't-live-without items, take my word for it. If you gift these to someone special, they will love you for it.

Check out my 2021 Young Kids' Gift Guide , too!

Gift Guide

1. Baby Foot Exfoliating Foot Peel - $25.00

This is the greatest product ever. Do not be fooled by impersonators. Don't save $10 and buy something cheaper; you will not have the same result. All you do is unwrap these plastic booties, stick your feet in and tape them on with the included tape, and wait an hour. Then, throw the booties away, rinse your feet off and wait for the magic to happen. In a week's time, the crusty old skin of your feet will slough and peel off and you'll be left with baby soft skin. If peeling skin delight's you, these are for you. You will want to take before, during and after photos. This product is amazing and you need it in your life. I use them about twice a year. Be sure to read all the tips online for how to achieve the best results. Hint: I like to soak my feet daily to speed up the process.

2. FabFitFun Box - $49.99/box or $179.00/season

This is probably the most fun gift you can get for someone OR yourself. Each season, you'll be delivered $200+ worth of full-size products (beauty/lifestyle). The yearly subscription is really the way to go, because you can customize everything you receive. And if you want to choose two items in one category, you can. It's usually +$15, +$10 or less to add on an extra in any category. I have gotten so many great items that I love, and been introduced to a bunch of new product lines. I see myself keeping this subscription for a long time. You'll also have access to exclusive sales, where you can purchase FULL-SIZE products at huge discounts.

3. TAN-LUXE The Face Illuminating Self-Tan Drops - $49.00

These self-tanning drops come in a light and dark shade. I use the light. You mix 1-4 drops with your moisturizer and smooth it across your face. I like that it doesn't really add another step into your routine, but I think these could be great for winter to get a sun-kissed glow. It's a subtle change, so it's easy to build to what suits you. I think I would use it every other day.

4. Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream SPF 30 - $128.00

This is the nicest face cream. It goes on smoothly, soaks in quickly, and instantly improves your skin's texture. I love that it has SPF, so even if your foundation doesn't, you're covered. It's great. I keep buying it. You may even find it in your FabFitFun box, if you're lucky.

5. Laura Geller Prep-n-Go Lip Scrub and Tint Duo - $24.00

The scrub side looks like a traditional lipstick, but is a sugar scrub and will leave your lips soft and smooth. Finish with the gloss if you want. I'm not a lipstick-wearing girl, but this saves my lips in the winter and I love how they look and feel.

6. Burt's Bees Tinted Lip Balm - $5.49

I'm the worst at consistently taking care of my lips and wearing lipstick, so anything that's easy is great for me. I love that this keeps my lips soft on the go--and adds subtle, universally-flattering color.

7. It Cosmetics Superhero Elastic Stretch Volumizing & Lengthening Mascara - $25.00

This mascara is volumizing and lengthening and makes your lashes look fabulous.

8. The Brow Trio - $36.00

This brow kit includes everything you need to do your brows in a handy pouch. You can even get color-matched online (I am soft brown) before purchasing. There are 9 stencils in all: A low, medium and high arch in small, medium and large. The size refers to the thickness of the brow. I like to use medium, high-arch because it looks natural and fits my brows best. You hold the stencil tightly against your brow and use the foam dabber to apply the pomade. Peel away the stencil, and you have even, defined brows! A spoolie is included for blending. Oh, and once it's dry, it's not going anywhere.

9. Laura Geller Double Take Foundation with Kabuki Brush - $34.00

This price blows me away--a full size foundation with brush!? Wow. I love the coverage of this foundation, as well as the ease of application. It can be applied wet or dry. (I do dry.)

10. Boar Bristle Hair Brush set - $19.97

If you have long hair, or kids with long hair, stop what you're doing and buy this brush. You even get a set of two! This brush is life-changing. It is the one I reach for when I am brushing out my wet hair, and the only one I use on our daughter. Brushing hair is no longer a battle and there are no tears. I'm telling you, it doesn't get better than this, so go for it.

11. Revlon One-Step Hair Dryer & Volumizer Hot Air Brush - $59.99

This is like a hair dryer and brush in one. I usually blow dry my hair upside down, then brush it out and straighten it with my Chi. This takes the place of both. I love that I can throw this in a suitcase and leave everything else at home and my hair will still look great. It's a real time saver and definitely helps create volume.

12. Seche Vite Dry Fast Top Coa t - $5.95

This is the best top coat. I do my nails (when I do them) at home, so there's always a struggle to not mess them up before they're dry. This speeds up dry time tremendously.

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Kids' Gift Guide - 2021

Mon, 13 Sep 2021 22:48:00 GMT

Young Kids' Gift Guide 2021

There's not much I love more than buying gifts. I'm also the person who buys something for you, and wants to immediately tell you what it is. I put a lot of time and energy into it every year for holidays and birthdays. Christmas is our BIG gift-giving occasion around here, and I always like to include a few items NOT on everyone's list, but things I think they'll love. Sure, we're going to have plenty of Barbie and LOL dolls under the tree, but it's nice to mix things up a little. Most of the toys on this list are things that are tried-and-true favorites in our house, so I hope you grab some this year and enjoy! I've heard toys are going to be harder to get this year, so I'm releasing this into the wild early.

Be sure to check out my 2021 Beauty Gift Guide , too!

Gift Guide

1. Flower Garden Building Toy - $32.99

This is the most adorable toy. It's so fun to create together, making a beautiful OR silly garden! It's also great for independent play. Endless possibilities!

2. Shapes Puzzle - $14.99

Children draw a card and use the shapes to create the picture on the card. You'll be amazed at what they can do. Creations range from simple to more complicated.

3. My Busy Books - Disney Princess Great Adventures - Tails of Adventure -$12.00

These are some of the most favorite toys in our house, and come in so many different themes. Themed figurines come with a foldable paper mat with different scenes, and are perfect for imaginative play. We play with and without the mat, often using the figures to play in other sets. I ordered another set as I was making this guide.

4. Magnet Building Blocks - $27.99

Magnets make it easy to build the designs in your head. These are super fun to play around with and kids love them.

5. Reusable Sticker Pad - Play House - Vehicles $6.49

These remind me of the Colorforms of the 80s, which I LOVED. Stickers are great, but these are static, so you can use them over and over.

6. Bucket Stilts - $19.99

These are at a safe level off the ground and it's fun for little ones to clomp around the house.

7. Horse Stable - $26.49

This is a beautiful toy. This classic stable is fun and has the bonus of storing the small pieces all together to make a nice display. You won't feel bad about leaving this one in view.

8. Lite-Bright - $12.79

Another classic toy! It's super fun to create colorful pictures in the dark. Make your own or follow a pattern included in the set.

9. YWF Pizza Sensory Kit - $39.00

Young Wild and Friedman makes the most adorable sensory kits for children. This pizza kit is unique and I can't think of any kid who wouldn't love to make their own pizzas with play dough and accessories.

10. Sam's Little Explorer Sofa - $179.00 or The Nugget Play Couch - $229.00

We have the Little Explorer Sofa from Sam's and LOVE it. This is a bit of an investment, but you won't be sorry you have it. Kids can use it for a couch, lounging, make a fort, a mat for tumbling, and more. It's sleek, modern design and variety of colors make it easy to find something you'll love in your home. It's the best and we use it every day.

11. View Master - $18.99

Simple, but fun, this classic throwback toy is fun for kids who are used to looking at all photos on a phone.

12. Wiki Sticks - $6.91

These are great to take with you to a restaurant, or trip, where quiet play is nice. Making 3-D sculptures provides lots of fun.

13. Water Beads - $11.99

Perfect for sensory play (seriously, look up the benefits!), these can't be beat. Every time I get them out, the kids find endless uses for them. We like to keep them in a shallow dish and add characters or figurines so things are corralled.

14. Mini Plastic Figurines - $15.95

Sometimes simple is best. Let your kids have some figurines outside, or add play dough inside and watch their imaginations go wild. This is a nice set with several themed tubes of figures. Try giving them one set at a time to make the fun last longer. I like to pull out a set on a rainy (or just boring) day!

15. Memory Game - $10.99

Ahh, Memory--one of my favorites as a kid AND an adult! This is great for developing connections in young brains and this colorful set is just adorable. They have lots of themes, so choose what your kids will like best. For younger kids, try only using part of the deck for easier and quicker games.

16. Bristle Blocks - $34.99

I discovered these in the dressing room of a local boutique when my son was a toddler. He was mesmerized by these bristly blocks and they occupied him completely while I tried on clothes. The only problem was that he wasn't ready to leave! haha

17. Let's Go Fishin' Game - $10.98

Great for fine motor skills, this game is challenging and fun for small hands. No rules to follow, so super easy to get started.

18. Yeti in my Spaghetti - $8.64

Another fun, simple game that's sure to end in laughter! Help develop fine motor skills and strategy while deciding which noodles to remove--without letting the yeti fall into the bowl!

19. Magic Tracks - $19.97

These are fantastic! They are easy to put together and adjust the track just like you want. You can buy expansion packs for even bigger courses. This keeps kids' attention for long periods of time and is a so fun for solo or group play.

20. Imagine Ink - $15.95

Another great item for quiet time, these books are full of different activities you can do with the "magic" marker. I like to use these for a fun surprise during the week. It'll keep them busy!

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Vintage Turkish Rug Pillows

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 23:09:47 GMT

Vintage Decor

I absolutely love seeing vintage rugs in people's homes online, but an authentic vintage rug doesn't come cheap. But, there are other ways to get the look in your home without spending an arm and a leg. You can purchase rug remnants from some sellers, which is essentially a rug that's been cut up into smaller pieces.

Many people use these sections to frame. Jordan at House Becomes Home Interiors and Lauren at Bless'er House have both done these. Jordan shares her home decor finds for herself and clients on Instagram. She changes up her home a lot, which I like, since I trend that way, too. She also has more rugs than me, so it makes me feel better about myself and my "problem" collecting rugs.

Lauren and her husband Robert share home renovation, thrifting and diy projects. I get SO many ideas from her. The butterfly printable art , hobnail vase makeover , and lime washing our house !

She has such a great eye for design and her style is what I would describe as modern traditional. I just love her energy and am so impressed with her seemingly endless ideas and talent. She cut up this rug (I don't think it was vintage) and framed a section in a shadow box .

If you're not into DIY, and love the look of the framed rug remnants, check out Target for this set of 24x30" textured fabric art.

Vintage Rug Pillows

Okay, I could spend all day browsing rugs and throw pillows, so this is one of my favorite ways to incorporate vintage into our home--combining rugs and pillows! I ran across this fabulous shop on Etsy (I think from Jordan?) called Kilim Pillow Oriental . You can order just the sham and it ships within the week from Turkey!

I chose three different designs, and used down inserts from old TJ Maxx and HomeGoods pillows to fill them. It worked perfectly. It's often cheaper to find a down pillow at one of those stores than to order inserts somewhere online. Plus, it works just as well, and you get a bonus cover for basically nothing. Buying shams, instead of entire pillows also makes it easier to store, if you're like me, and like to switch up your pillows for the season.

Since these aren't the softest, and my family always complains about me buying these rough pillows, I try to place them where people aren't lounging on them. They look great on a little bench, but I also like to set them out on our hearth because I love the colors and textures.

Fireplace Makeover

Since I don't encourage anyone to flop on the beds once they're made, the bed is the perfect place for this kind of statement pillow. I have our bed pretty neutral right now, so I can mix it up with different pillows and throws.

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Fireplace Makeover with Romabio Lime Slurry

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 19:10:02 GMT

The OLD Old Fireplace

This is the original den and fireplace before we moved in. The paneling and fireplace were both painted a beige. We replaced the paneling with new drywall and painted the brick fireplace SW Dover White (a great creamy white) and spray painted the existing brass mantle black with high-heat spray paint.

I eventually replaced the mantle on top of the bricks with a chunkier, solid-looking wood mantle that really changed the look of the entire fireplace.

High-Heat Spray Paint

You can see in the photo above, the interior of the firebox was painted white and looked dirty. It's also a good place to see how the black fireplace doors could use touched up. I used a can of Rust-Oleum High-Heat Spray Paint from Home Depot to do both, which you can read about here .

Fireplace Makeover

I'd been itching to do something to our fireplace for a while, but struggled with what I could do to make it more modern. I love the cement-look fireplace surrounds, and found a product by Portola Paints that could make it happen, but I could only use it on a smooth surface like drywall, so I'd have to find someone to hang it. Also, the hearth perplexed me, since I didn't think drywall would stand the test of time on a horizontal surface. I finally found what I was looking for when I saw share about their fireplace transformation on Instagram.

Prep

I wanted to fill in some of the mortar gaps between the bricks so they weren't so deep. It would be easy enough to do with mortar, but mortar will not stick to painted brick. We already had latex paint on our bricks, but no worries, Romabio makes a Mineral Primer you can use over painted surfaces so the mortar (or lime product) will stick. It only took a 1L container to cover the bricks with one coat. I used my Romabio brush to apply it and it was super easy to do. The primer creates a finished that feels a little chalky to the touch. The perfect canvas for applying the mortar.

Premixed Mortar

I originally bought the smaller 1 gallon tub of mortar, but it didn't go far, at all, so I sent my husband back to Home Depot to get the larger bucket. That was plenty. Applying the mortar was the most challenging (and messiest) part. I used premixed mortar and applied it with a wide putty knife, slapping it onto the bricks. I worked in small areas from top to bottom, slapping and smoothing it out with the putty knife, kind of like you're icing a cake.

Once it was in all the joints, I took a wet sponge and smoothed it all out. This was kind of fun and made it possible to even it out. The goal here wasn't to eliminate all the gaps within the brick; I just wanted to soften them for a fluffier look. I turned on the ceiling fan in the room and let it dry overnight.

Romabio Lime Slurry

Romabio makes one of my very favorite products I recommend to just about everyone--Classico Limewash. It's what I used on our house a few years ago to totally transform the outside . It's something I am complimented on constantly.

I was pumped to find another product by Romabio that could help me transform the fireplace! I ordered Romabio Lime Slurry through Ring's End . It in Connecticut and shipping was really fast--almost like Prime!

It comes in a concentrate (like a thick paste) and you add a small amount of water and mix it up to the perfect consistency. I used the paddle attachment on my drill, but for this small amount, I could have easily done it with a paint stirrer.

Lime Slurry is a thicker, more textured version of limewash. You can use it on the exterior of your brick, stone or stucco home for an old-world look. It's an authentic, Italian lime paint that creates a beautiful textured finish. I would describe it as almost a little sandy in texture. I used the color Avioro White for our fireplace, which is in between bright white and cream. It dries lighter, because I was a little worried when I started, but it's just perfect now.

I brushed it on with my Romabio large masonry brush in about half an hour. One coat was plenty and it took a couple hours to dry. This makeover really softened the look of our fireplace, and now the brick doesn't look so busy. It's now a beautiful backdrop for decor. I love how it totally transformed our fireplace with relative ease and without breaking the bank!

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Fireplace Makeover with High-Heat Spray Paint

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 18:22:31 GMT

Original Fireplace

I spray painted our brass fireplace surround before we moved in with Rust-Oleum High-Heat Spray Paint . I unscrewed it, took it outside and taped off the glass with blue painter's tape and spray it. It's easy and really goes a long way with updating outdated fireplace doors.

Over time, they got a little scuffed, so it really needed retouched, so I carefully taped everything again and gave it another coat. It's amazing the difference this last coat made in how neat the surround looked. I think that means you should probably make this a job of three light coats if you're painting over the original metal. I would have had a better initial result, because one coat easily touched up everything so well.

The Firebox

You know how you don't always see or notice things you see all the time? I never really realized how yucky the firebox itself looked until I started photographing our fireplace after I built our new mantle. The interior was painted white and was very dirty and had what looked like rust all over the walls. I waited to do this part of the project until summer on a 100-degree day, because I used the gas logs all winter.

I opened the doors and removed all the gas logs, but didn't unscrew the gas line. I created a little tent with trash bags to keep the spray paint from coming out as much, and put on a mask and opened the door next to the fireplace for ventilation. I sprayed all the white areas (walls and floor) black with high-heat spray paint, and man, it was fumey. Even in a mask, I had to take a lot of breaks and leave the door open for a while to get the smell out.

As much as I tried to shield the paint from coming out, I didn't do a perfect job at that, and ended up having to do quite a bit of cleanup afterward on the surrounding areas. I think it might have been better to get the traditional high-heat paint and rolled it on. It probably would've taken me longer to get it on the walls, but I guarantee you I probably spent more time cleaning than the time savings of using the spray was. So, do as I say, not as I do.

After

I am amazed at what a difference touching up the exterior of our fireplace doors and painting the inside black did to improve the overall appearance of our fireplace. It's an easy, less than $10 project that really makes an impact. You can also read how I transformed the look of our brick fireplace here with Romabio Lime Slurry.

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White Washed Dresser Makeover

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:52:25 GMT

Dresser Makeover

I normally end up painting old furniture, but I've been itching to try sanding and staining an older piece so I jumped on it when my in-laws said they were getting rid of this dresser. It's a classic style in good condition and I could see the potential.

Plans

I didn't love the current finish, so I decided to sand everything, including the knobs, so I planned to used them again. It sanded down beautifully, but I did run into one small problem--the top was veneer/plastic! Ugh! I almost broke down and painted the whole thing, but I didn't want to give up my dream of having gorgeous bleached wood, so I pressed on.

I patched the corners of the wood veneer top where it was chipped or peeling with stainable wood putty, then sanded it with my electric sander.

Once I sanded everything, I put a layer of wood conditioner on everything before applying a very transparent aged wood/gray stain. Then, I used Varathane's Wood Stain White Wash .

I could have probably gotten by without the stain or wood conditioner with this product. It goes on very opaque, so after it's painted on, you go back with a rag (or paper towel) and wipe it away until it has the look you are going for. I rubbed pretty hard to get mine off, because I wanted to see some of the color of the wood through the stain. I loved how it got into the grain so well; all the areas on the wood that were darker in the grain were not white. You can still see the color of the wood through and it almost has the effect of pink from far away.

Veneer Top

I thought about using Minwax Gel Stain with white wash on top to mimic the look of wood on the dresser top, but I was worried that the stain would be too dark in contrast with the light wood, so I decide to paint it. I used chalk paint I already had in a very light grey and brushed on two coats. I finished with a layer of white wash on top of the paint and it actually blends very well with the rest of the piece. I'm so glad I found a solution to dealing with the veneer top!

Seating Area

I pulled everything together with this 5x7 black and white striped rug by Better Homes & Gardens at Walm a rt for $49.98. I can't wait to try out more carpentry projects!

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DIY Outdoor Coffee Table

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:24:40 GMT

Outdoor Furniture

After I made our outdoor couch from modified plans from Angela Marie Made , I knew we needed to add a coffee table. I wanted to have a place to set down a drink or plate and surface for the kids to play. Not to mention, a place to put up our feet! I thought it would be the best of both worlds if I could make something that could be a coffee table OR bench, and this one met both of those requirements.

Plans

After browsing several plans, I settled this one by Ana White. I liked that it didn't require any mitered cuts, pocket holes or special tools.

It was super simple and I easily put it all together. I made all my cuts with my hand saw, then used a drill to screw everything together. It's built entirely of 2x4s, so it's VERY sturdy. It's interchangeable between a coffee table and a bench. I like flexibility. I patched all my screws and large knot holes with stainable wood putty, before sanding the entire piece well with my electric sander. I used the same stain + sealer to match our outdoor sofa .

I love how this table/bench turned out and it has proven to be so useful for us! This is a great beginner-level project!

Seating Area

I pulled everything together with this 5x7 black and white striped rug by Better Homes & Gardens at Walm a rt for $49.98. I can't wait to try out more carpentry projects!

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DIY Outdoor Sofa

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:04:05 GMT

Outdoor Sofa

While sitting outside at the table on the deck, I looked over to the other side and imagined getting an outdoor sofa for a little extra seating and lounging. Once I had the vision, I couldn't get it out of my head and had to find a way to make it happen. I thought it would be as simple as ordering an outdoor sofa, but once I started shopping around, I couldn't believe how expensive pieces like this were! Everything was around $1,000 or more! Our deck is entirely un-covered, so the idea of leaving it out in the open at that price didn't appeal to me, so I found a way to make one myself!

Your Base

I looked at different sets of free plans on Pinterest and eventually landed on this design by Angela Marie Made . Basically, I built the frame to fit my cushions. I knew I wanted something large--3 wide, so I had to adjust some of her measurements. I learned lots of new things along the way, including making invisible pocket holes! I bought a single Kreg pocket hold jig for around $20. You have to use a separate clamp with it and it's definitely more tedious than a more expensive jig, but it got the job done.

I also cut everything with my hand saw. I am no expert at woodworking, but it was an easy-enough project for me to complete, but it was definitely a challenge and I also used my parents for a couple extra hands. I was going to use cedar, but I ended up buying pine because with wood prices being sky-high right now, I didn't want to spend that much. Also, if I messed up something, I didn't want to feel too guilty.

I won't share my plans, because I literally went by Angela Marie's and they are much better than anything I could show you. The only thing I left off was the decorative side rails on the arms. I just kept mine simple. It's sturdy and very comfy with the cushions. I also added an extra support under the cushions on the sides of the middle one, so they won't fall down into the frame when you sit on it.

Finishing

I s anded everything with my electric sander after it was put together. You could also do it before. I wanted the look of cedar, so I found a reddish stain + sealer by Thompson's and I love how it turned out.

Cushions

I originally built my frame to fit 24x24" cushions, but ended up finding these Allen + Roth cushions at Lowe's that were 25x25". It actually worked better having the cushions fit tighter, so I'm glad I found these cushions. I also picked up these adorable throw pillows at Walmart for $5 each!

Seating Area

I pulled everything together with this 5x7 black and white striped rug by Better Homes & Gardens at Walmart for $49.98. I just love how it turned out and want to build another bench!

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How To Make a Faux Olive Tree

Fri, 05 Feb 2021 22:20:05 GMT

Faux Trees

I love bringing greenery into our home--both real and faux. There's hardly a room in our house that doesn't have at lease SOME plant now, but I haven't bought any larger trees. I love the look of an olive tree, but Kentucky doesn't exactly have that perfect Mediterranean climate, so a real one probably wouldn't fare well. Faux olive trees are very expensive for anything sizeable, so I found another way. There's nothing like some green to breathe some life into a space!

Your Base

For the structure of my trees, I used pieces of a huge tree branch that fell from our neighbor's oak tree during a storm into our yard. I chose sections that had several smaller branches off the larger base. The actual sections are about 5 feet. I cut them with my hand saw and broke off any yucky twigs that didn't look great of fit the shape. Once you set it upright to start to work, it will be easier to see what works for the shape of the structure.

Putting it Together

I brought my branches in the house to work with them, since it's winter. I just propped up each branch against a piece of furniture, so it stood upright, but you could have another person give you a hand, too. I used faux olive bushes from Hobby Lobby for mine.

I ordered 6 bushes for around $50.00, shipped. I was able to make a two large and one small table-top tree from my supplies. Each large tree took approximately 2 bushes total to complete. I cut each bush apart with wire cutters. I had a mix of single, double and triple sprigs.

To attach the olive sprigs, I wrapped them with brown floral ta pe around the ends of each branch. I also put a few lower on the branches in blank spots that needed filled in. You just tear off lengths of tape and tightly stretch and wrap it around the branch and faux olive stems.

You'll definitely want to use brown floral tape, so it blends in with your tree branch. I was surprised how well it matched the bark and seamlessly blends in and looks so realistic.

Making a Base for Your Tree

Once the olive stems are on your tree, it's time to make the base. You'll need something to pour the concrete into. I used an old bucket for one and an empty plastic pretzel container for the other. I cut the top off so it wasn't so high. For my smaller tree, I used an empty cardboard oatmeal container.

I bought a small 50-lb. bag of Quikrete and mixed it with water in a 5-gallon bucket with the mixer paddle attachment on my drill. You could probably mix smaller amounts by hand, but it makes it faster and easier with a drill. Be careful not to add much water, because it will take longer to dry. You'll want a batter-like consistency. Once it's all mixed up, set the base of your tree in the middle of your container and pour the concrete all around. You can stick the base in floral foam first to help it stay in place, but it's not absolutely necessary, but does make it easier. You'll need to tape the trunk into place with heavy-duty tape like duct tape. I even propped mine against the garage door overnight so they didn't lean. I found that it took the concrete at least two full days to dry. It would probably be faster in warmer weather.

Troubleshooting

One of my trees wasn't as stable as the other, so I used Great Stuff spray foam to fill in around the trunk and give it stability. I just filled in the entire base so it would be extra sturdy. I think I needed a deeper container for my base, so keep that in mind when selecting yours.

Baskets

I used round baskets to cover the base of my trees. I just set each concrete base down in the baskets and covered with moss from Michaels.

Faux Olive Trees

I have not been this excited about a project in a long time! It was easier and turned out even better than I expected. I figure, I saved quite a bit of money and have about $70 in this, and got two 6-foot trees and one small out of it, so I'm thrilled! I couldn't wait to share this and hope you'll give it a try.

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Luxury Bedding Formula for Less

Thu, 28 Jan 2021 00:32:20 GMT

Bedding

I have gone through a LOT of bedding in a pretty short amount of time. I like to switch things up pretty frequently, often with the seasons, but until now, I was always searching for MORE with our bedding. I always wanted the bed to look more welcoming, more like hotel or something you see in a store, where you just want to flop on that bed and sink in.

I used to always have a comforter, until I switched to a quilt. I much prefer sleeping under the weight of a quilt, so that's what I have been purchasing, but a quilt just doesn't give you as much "fluff" as I desired. You can see below the quilt look. It's fine, but it certainly doesn't have that magazine look.

Study What You Like

I finally started studying photos of bedding that I liked in pictures, noticing what exactly each bed included, the colors and layers that were there, the pillow arrangements. I took lots of inspiration from Shea McGee at Studio McGee , Jordan at House Becomes Home and Lauren at Bless'r House . Be sure to check out all those links, because each has awesome tips!

Studio McGee was where I first noticed the option to use two, instead of three Euro pillows on a king-sized bed. What?! I loved the look of putting two Euros in front of the king pillows, instead of three on the back. Plus, I also LOVED that it saved money on one of the most expensive items in bedding, the Euro sham and insert! I knew this was the route I wanted to go.

Then, I found an inspiration from Jordan that I kept going back to. I even ordered the Casaluna quilt and throw she had in the picture to try! I was so sure this was going to be a hit, but I was only half right. She does the BEST job styling beds and I love her taste. She's great at sourcing awesome sale items, too.

I hit the jackpot with Bless'r House. She wrote about how to achieve a luxury look and feel on a budget, which always comes into play for me. She even has a post called "7 Tricks to Make Your Bed Fluffy for Less" that I read. I also read "The Best Luxury Feel Bedding for a Tight Budget" and "How to Make a Bed Like the Magazines" .

I kind of combined everything to create something that worked for us.

Your Base

I started with a base of 100% white cotton sheets from Sam's that I already owned. I love cotton sheets and really never use anything else. I started with two new king pillows so they were extra fluffy and new for this transformation. I tried the gel-filled ones suggested by Lauren at Bless'r House, and while they fill out the pillowcases nicely, they didn't have enough support for me, so I returned them and purchased these from Amazon. They are nice and firm and I get a good night's sleep. They are also perfect in the pillowcase.

Think in Layers

Much like an outfit looks more put together with multiple layers and accessories, so does a bed. Think sheets, blankets, duvets, quilts, throws and pillows. You don't have to have them ALL, but you'll need to pick several.

I used Lauren's suggestion of using a duvet insert (with no cover) between the quilt and sheet to add volume and fluff to the bed. She actually uses two for her bed, but that was just too many for us. I found that one adds enough fluffiness. I bought this on e off Amazon for around $40. I also love that I don't have to wrestle with actually putting it in a duvet cover!

I ordered two different quilts--one white and one tan. The Casaluna quilt from Target was the one I was SURE I was going to love, but in our space, it just looks so dark, and I wanted a brighter, fresher look. It's a beautiful quilt if you're looking for something darker. It's $109 and a really nice quality cashmere blend. If the light natural color would have been in stock, it probably would've been perfect.

The other quilt I ordered was a white microfiber quilt from Belk. It ended up coming with two king shams for around $50 and shipped free and arrived a couple days later! It was probably closer to a California King size when it arrived, but I washed it and it shrunk a lot. It still fits our bed well and looks a little better after it's washed because it showcases the stitching more.

I chose to send back the sand-colored Casaluna quilt and keep the white one.

Making the Bed

Once you put on the fitted sheet, put the flat sheet on top (top face down) and pull it all the way to the top of the mattress. Tuck in the bottom and sides. Lay the duvet insert on top and pull to the top of the sheet. Put the quilt on top of the duvet and pull all the way up. Grabbing all three layers, fold them back about 1/3 the way of the mattress. You can leave it this way with the sheet on top, or fold it back in half again, so the quilt is on top again. This gives the bedding a little volume, which I like.

Now, place the pillows straight up against the headboard. Put the king shams in front of them. Now, put your throw pillows. I chose to get two 22x22" Euro Shams from HomeGoods. They are solid cream with lots of pattern and texture, and of course, tassels! I arrange them towards the center of the bed, before finishing it off with a colorful patterned throw pillow. I think a lumbar or 16x16" pillow works great here.

I have a muslin throw from HomeGoods folded across the foot of the bed. It's tan with white pinstripes and a little fringe. Per Jordan's suggestion at House Becomes Home, I purchased the Casaluna Chunky Knit Bed Blanket in Natural. I got the full/queen size and it's plenty large for at the end of a king bed. I don't bother folding it--I just toss it across the bed from the side where you can still see the folded throw at the bottom.

Mixing it up

The great thing about having a good, basic base is the ability to easily mix it up. You can change up your pillows, or add a different throw as the seasons change. I love having that option. I am also crazy about how our new bedding looks AND feels! Use this basic formula to create a combination you love! See, I'm mixing it up already. This rust pillow from the Studio McGee by Threshold collection at Target gets switched out for some vintage kilim pillows I ordered from Turkey off Etsy! How can I choose?

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Vintage Decor for a Little Girl's Room - Displaying Vintage Horse Show Ribbons and Pennants

Wed, 27 Jan 2021 23:10:44 GMT

Vintage Horse Show Ribbons

Another idea I grabbed from Lay Baby Lay ! I also got the idea of monogramming an initial on vintage wood tennis rackets from her. She has such unique ideas and genuinely cool style. I love it, and I have gone wild searching for vintage horse show ribbons online. My go-to sources right now are Etsy and Ebay, and sometimes you can buy an entire lot for a pretty good price if you pay attention to the auctions. It's so fun to collect all the different colors out there AND places around the world. I have some in French because they are Canadian. I love the style of the 1960s ribbons. My absolute favorite ribbon is a green one from Teela Wooket Camps. The name was so unusual, I Googled it and it was a girls' camp in Roxbury, Vermont that many prominent peoples' daughters attended from across the country. I saw somewhere that Nixon's daughter Julie was a camper. Pretty interesting.

Arranging your Collection

I used a mix of mounting methods to arrange all the ribbons. Per Joni's suggestion on Lay Baby Lay, I ordered the mt brand of washi tape off Amazon to use because it holds well without damaging surfaces. If you have something that's just not sticking, you can always use a velcro-style Command Strip, too. Horse show ribbons have clips on the back and you can put tape behind the clip (with the sticky side facing away from the ribbon), then press it on the wall or surface you wish to attach it to.

In this group, I taped the yellow ribbon directly to the wall, my green Teela Wooket to a painted wood block, and the simply clipped the pink ribbon on the corner of a picture frame.

As you can see, I clipped a pink ribbon on each end of the fabric scrap swag I have hanging over the windows. A few larger ribbons are displayed on the heart memory board above the bed.

Using Ribbons as Part of a Gallery Wall

I grouped three cream ribbons together as part of this gallery wall, and you can see how I displayed the others. I tried to be sure everything was balanced while taking into consideration size, color and weight of the actual items. If you have pink, blue and yellow, balance the arrangement by having each color in different areas and not all stuck together.

Vintage Pennants

These adorable vintage pennants are both pretty small in scale to what you expect when you purchase a modern-day pennant. I found these on Ebay and Etsy and they are all in great condition. I chose these because they are Kentucky landmarks and we have visited Mammoth Cave more than once. It was originally a bright blue pennant, but the front faded to light grey and I love the color as is. I used washi tape to mount these to the wall and love the mix with the other vintage items.

More Pennants

I have not visited either of these Canadian landmarks, but the colors and style sold me on both. Storybook Gardens seemed perfect for a little girl's room with the fairytale name and mix of red and pink. I also loved the pastel mix of colors in the Niagara Falls pennant. I think they fit perfectly here, above the beautiful ribbons.

More Ideas for Mounting Pennants

I painted over an old Hobby Lobby framed print, and added the mustard-colored frame with a plan to paint a landscape on it, but it was the perfect size and color for this awesome pennant from Kentucky Dam Village State Park. It's extra special because we've been there more times than I can count, so it was fun to get to include something so familiar.

Using Vintage Decor

I love to use a mix of new and old, and kids' rooms are no different. I've always gravitated to vintage or vintage-inspired items for these spaces. Pennants and ribbons are each so unique and you can choose the ones that best suit your taste and style. I have a feeling I'll keep collecting both and you'll see them pop up again. If you're interested in finding some, be sure to check out Etsy and Ebay, although local antique shops and flea markets are other good ideas.

You can hang the rackets alone, or if on a larger wall, feel free to arrange other smaller items around them!

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Vintage Wood Tennis Racket Cross Stitch Wall Decor

Mon, 25 Jan 2021 22:54:51 GMT

Vintage Wood Racket Art

I first came across this idea on Lay Baby Lay and absolutely love her style and ability to take everyday objects and make them special again. I am crazy about her use of vintage horse show ribbons and started collecting them and using them in my home, too.

Tennis has always been a huge part of my life. I

How To

When picking your yarn, a heavier weight is better. It's easier and faster than using something super thin. I chose a color that would stand out on the wall, while coordinating with other things in the room. Since I was doing pretty straight forward letters without many curves, I freehanded mine. I thread the yarn through a needle (although you CAN do it without one), tied it around the string section I started with to secure it, and started neatly wrapping it in a line. I worked with pretty long pieces, so I didn't have to tie it off and restart as often.

If you're not comfortable freehanding it, print off a letter in a typeface you like and cut it out. Center it on the strings of the racket and start wrapping the yarn around it. You're not limited to letters, either. I thought about doing a heart on one of mine to go with the H.

Painting the Rackets

If you don't love the color of the racket, use a little paint to change it up. I didn't want to lose all the character of the racket, but I didn't love the red stripe on one, so I painted over it with pink acrylic paint with a flat brush and I like it so much better for the room.

Hanging the Racket Straight

If you're just using one racket, it's super easy. Put a long nail through the top middle strings and hang it up! I paired this one with a vintage pennant and love the simplity!

Hanging the Rackets Crossed

Hanging the rackets crossed is a little trickier, but not too bad. It's easier with two people, so you have someone to hold them and you can position them just how you like before making any holes in the wall. Once you get them how you like them, place a long nail through the strings on the bottom racket. Do the same with the racket on the right. The nails may or not be on the top center string, and that's okay! Once they're hanging, determine where they'll cross. I used a piece of a Velcro Command strip to attach the throats of the racket to each other. Once they were secure, I did the same thing with the racket on the bottom--I attached it to the wall with a Command Strip.

Put your lampshade back on and you're all finished! This is a really easy and inexpensive project and great dupe for an expensive lamp. I can't wait to try this process out on some vases!

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More Free Printable Landscape Art

Thu, 29 Oct 2020 22:58:57 GMT

Free Art Prints

We all know by now I LOVE to talk about how I create new art from old art and what a fun transformation that can be. Changing the art can totally transform a room and I'm here for it! I love creating art, but I know not everyone is so into that process (hey, I can't sing a note to save my life!). So, I am sharing some of the recent landscapes I painted in different sizes and offering them as a free digital download. My last collection is available here and I have more to share now! You can print them off on your home printer or have them printed somewhere. I hope you enjoy them as much as I did painting them! And please don't forget to tag me if you post a picture @grey.snail.press or use #greysnaildesigns!

Landscape 5

Landscape 6

Landscape 7

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Sensory Kits for Kids

Sun, 04 Oct 2020 23:24:14 GMT

Sensory Kits

I tried to order some of these for my kiddos, but they were all sold out, so I decided to make them myself--homemade play dough and all. I was having a hard time putting them together, because the kids wanted to play with them as I went! These were such a HUGE hit in our house, I decided to make some to sell in the Grey Snail Baby Etsy shop . I hope you enjoy these as much as we do!

I made several different themed kits and have so many ideas for more. Right now, we have Fun on the Farm, Dinosaur Delight, Fabulous Fantasy, Jungle Safari, Horse Habitat and Ocean Adventure. These are really for older children who aren't still putting things in their mouths (or noses). There are lots of small parts, so direct adult supervision is necessary. I love watching kids explore and create whole worlds with these simple things.

Sensory Play

There are al l sorts of benefits to sensory play--you can read about it online and it's really unbelievable! It aids in developing brain pathways, cognitive development, calming anxiety and even help speech. But the biggest selling point to me what that my kids happily put down their electronic devices in exchange for some old-fashioned play time. It is so difficult to compete for attention in the world of phones and games, but much to my amazement, they did so with enthusiasm. I hope incorporating this kind of play into our routine on a regular basis will enhance all of our lives.

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Free Printable Landscape Art

Thu, 03 Sep 2020 21:09:40 GMT

Free Art Prints

I already talked about how I LOVE to create new art from old art and what a fun transformation that can be. One of the reasons I enjoy doing that is because it is so economical--often FREE. Sometimes I even purchase a piece I don't really love so I can use the existing frame/mat/canvas for something else. Other times, I update a piece after I've used it for a while and I'm not feeling it as much in its original form.

I use old wall art to frame family photos, new art prints, and often create my own new paintings. While I think everyone can create their own abstract or landscape, I know not everyone WANTS to create their own art. So, I am sharing some of the recent landscapes I painted in different sizes and offering them as a free digital download. You can print them off on your home printer or have them printed somewhere. I hope you enjoy them as much as I did painting them! And please don't forget to tag me if you post a picture @grey.snail.press or use #greysnaildesigns!

Landscape 1

Landscape 2

Landscape 3

Landscape 4

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DIY Art Print Makeover

Sun, 16 Aug 2020 22:23:14 GMT

Art Prints

I've been really admiring some of the unique vintage prints, landscapes, florals and abstracts at Juniper Print Shop . Designer Jenny Komenda not only styles beautiful interiors, but also runs Juniper Home with her husband and team, and they provide gorgeous large-scale art at affordable prices. I'm eyeing several I want now. Oh, and they even offer instant downloads if you want to print yourself!

Here are some prints I'm loving. The first two are from Juniper Print. The third is Studio McGee for Target, but is currently sold out! As you can see, these beautiful landscapes are everywhere right now.

Existing Art

I love to buy art prints at Hobby Lobby. They are always really on-trend and you can't beat the prices. Sometimes I even buy a piece I don't love with the intention to use it another way. I've done a technique with joint compound on a canvas with a great result.

I noticed the other day that I had an almost hilarious number of prints of potted plants. LOL. So, I decided to take matters into my own hands and get out my acrylic paints and get to work to change that. We just painted to den SW Creamy to brighten things up, so I was ready to refresh everything, anyway.

Are we sensing a trend here yet??

Prep Work

You'd think you'd be able to take off the back of the frame, pop out the print and stick in another, but that's not how cheap Hobby Lobby art works. The print is glued on top of foam board, then glued onto the mat, so if you were to try to take the print out off the mat, it would likely rip. I tried cutting the print out with an utility knife, but since it's attached to the foam, you end up seeing a cross-section of the cut foam around where your print would go, so that didn't work. Basically, you have two options for re-purposing these: tape off and paint over the existing art OR taping a new art print on top of the other art.

Taking the Old Art Apart

First, you'll need to remove the paper off the back. Just slice it along the edge with something kind of sharp and rip it off. Then, use a flat head screwdriver to pry out the staples along the edge. They'll probably only come halfway out, so use some pliers to coax them the rest of the way out.

New Art on Top

This is the easiest and safest route. If you mess up, you can simply start again with a new page. I used a large piece of textured cardstock (I had on hand from my job selling wedding invitations) and cut it to JUST larger than the opening for the print. I made my painting on the cardstock and positioned and secured it into place with tape on the back along the perimeter. I cleaned off the glass, but the foam board with new art back inside and secured it with a few staples from a staple gun along the back.

Painting Over Existing Art

The only challenge to painting over existing art is keeping the mat clean and not getting too much water on the painting, so the paper doesn't bubble. Don't ask me how I know. Actually, I painted an entire mat white because I dripped paint on it!

I use Frog Tape to tape off the mat opening. The delicate kind would be best. You'll want to be sure to do this carefully and maybe tape a couple layers so you don't get the mat accidentally when you get too excited painting! You can also do this on paintings without a mat by just taping off the frame.

Landscapes

I used kind of the same formula for most of the landscapes I did, altering the colors and orientation for what I needed. I did a rough, blended sky of different colors, some mountains or large distant formations in the background, trees/bushes on top, then usually some details in the middle ground and sometimes a more detailed plant in the foreground. It was fun to mix up colors to fit the frames and the rooms I planned to use them.

Abstracts

If abstracts are more in your comfort zone, by all means, use this method and create something! Shapes, colors, patterns. My best advice is to pick your colors BEFORE you start painting, so there's a method to your madness.

You can do it!

Don't forget, you can also mix in some family photos to replace old prints! That's a great way to get a really cool frame and mat without having to spend a ton. I love having a new mix of photos, abstracts and landscapes to freshen up our home. And don't forget to sign your work--it shows it's original art!!

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Wood Tray Diy

Sun, 16 Aug 2020 21:15:41 GMT

Wood Tray

I've been seeing these cute little wood pedestals all over Instagram. I tend to call mine a wood tray, but I guess you could also refer to them as a stand or pedestal. People use them for plants, candles, soap and all sorts of other things. I have SO much scrap wood around here from other projects, I decided to give it a try and make one myself. Fast forward a week and I have made over a dozen! Oh, and I didn't spend a dime because I had everything on hand!

Supplies

I just had a variety of different widths of wood boards from 3"-10", along with 1x2" boards for the legs. I used my mitre saw to cut around 2" lengths of 1x2s to use for the legs. I used a several different lengths for the actual trays.

Don't worry too much about the wood being too rough when you cut it. I cut everything with a handsaw so my cuts are pretty rough on these. You'll sand them later.

I used wood glue to attach one leg to each corner of the larger board, trying to use the "nicest" side of the board for the top. Be sure to wipe off any excess and not to use too much. This will be set enough for you to work with it again in about an hour.

Sanding

I used my electric Craftsman sander with a fine grit sandpaper to sand every surface of the tray. I sanded the corner of the edges and legs so it wasn't sharp and looked worn. I was also able to correct any errors of the legs not being completely flush with the top by sanding that down. Sanding is by far the most labor-intensive part of this project. Everything else is super quick. I definitely recommend using an electric sander--especially if you plan to do more than one. It is so much easier and does a better job than you would do sanding by hand.

Staining

I like to use a mix of lighter and darker stain to get a medium tone that's not too red or gray. I think I used several on these. I used Minwax Natural and Provincial for all the trays shown. Varathane Weathered Oak and Early American are also another great mix. Once it's dry, I give it a good spray with Low Odor Crystal Clear Krylon to seal it and it's ready to go!

How I use mine!

I love using the different size trays around the house. A small tray is perfect for keeping all your dish washing supplies together and keeps drips off the counter. I also love a narrow tray for behind the sink. They are great for storing hand soap and toothbrushes!

I also use them EVERYWHERE for styling. They are great to corral a collection of like items. I use them for plant stands or anything that just needs a boost.

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Decorate Bookshelves with Color Coded Books

Sun, 16 Aug 2020 20:30:37 GMT

Decorating Bookshelves

Bookshelves can be so difficult to decorate, especially when you want to mesh form and function. I want my shelves to be functional and useful storage without looking like they are stuffed full and only utilitarian. I like to get a nice mix of books, photos, art prints, storage items, vessels and do-dads. I love using baskets or boxes to corral less aesthetically-pleasing items. When you start to add books, sometimes it's easy for things to begin to look cluttered, so I'm sharing some of my favorite tips for keeping things useful, neat and stylish!

Stacking Books

I like to have a nice mix of books standing vertically and stacked on their sides. Don't feel obligated to just have row after row of books stored like a library. Mixing up the way the books are oriented can create some real interest and keep things from looking too bookstore-ish. Also, don't be afraid to set things on top of a stack of books (think photos, bowls, and other objects) or use an unexpected item as a bookend. A book or two is also a great way to elevate something or place a frame.

Group by Size

Grouping books by size can do wonders for keeping books neat and tidy on your shelves. Instead of having a 6" tall book next to an oversized coffee table book, try roughly grouping books by size. You don't have to be too literal with this tip. Keeping things in size families, like small, medium and large is what I'm talking about.

Remove Book Jackets

Simply removing book jackets is the easiest way to improve how your bookshelves look. Beautiful spines and covers are often hidden by jackets, so take those off and uncover some hidden gems.

Group Books by Color

Whether you remove the jackets or not, grouping books by color is my favorite way to organize books. I like grouping them in single colors and neutrals, as well as having them grouped as a rainbow. I still like to keep size in mind here, too, so things are similarly sized. I don't always to a literal rainbow in regard to light to dark--arrange the books so they look nice, even if technically the lighter orange should be two books over. Move them around until you like them.

Cookbooks

I store my cookbooks in a built-in shelving unit on our kitchen island, but they always looked so messy and unorganized until I grouped them by color. Check out the difference!

Finding Books

I used old books my husband has stored for all the books I put on my white built-ins. I literally went through them on-at-a-time, peeking at the spines to see if they were a color I wanted. If you don't have a lot of books, think about hitting up yard sales or the thrift store for cheap vintage books. I love the texture antique books have. You can also arrange them with the pages OUT. I think that's especially nice with neutral-colored books that might not be as cohesive with their spines out.

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Found Pot DIY

Sun, 16 Aug 2020 18:13:08 GMT

Found Pots

I think this idea originated from Jaci Daily , but I've seen lots of people recreate it online. I first tried it out successfully on an old lamp . The basic idea is to spray paint your vessel with a matte spray paint, let it dry, smear wet dirt/mud all over it and buff off the excess. The result is something from a high-end catalog or store. It's super easy and I used black paint for my lamp.

Old Vase

I decided to try it out again with a different color on a large, chunky vase I've had for years. It came from some flowers my husband got for me and I've always loved it. This time, I chose a matte tan spray paint, covered it with two coats and waited for it to dry. I rubbed wet dirt (not slimy mud) all over and let it dry. After it dried in the sun for several minutes, I buffed off the excess.

Every time I've done this technique, I've had a couple spots where the paint rubbed off where you could see the original pottery. It's pretty easy to fix. You can either spray a small stream of paint directly on the spot, let it dry, and then gently pat some dirt over it to blend it, OR you can spray the paint in a plastic cup and dab it on the chips with your finger or a q-tip, then pat the dirt in. The key is to be gentle when you're rubbing to avoid having the problem in the first place.

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Dirt Lamp DIY

Fri, 03 Jul 2020 22:47:39 GMT

Rustic Lamp Makeover

I've seen this technique used on ceramic vases, crocks and lamps, and I've been itching to try it out myself. The basic idea is to spray paint your vessel with a matte (black) spray paint, let it dry, smear wet dirt/mud all over it and buff off the excess. The result is something from a high-end catalog or store. If you try to buy a lamp like this online, you'll see price tags well over $200, so with a few supplies, you can recreate the look for much less.

Choosing your Vessel

The key to choosing the right piece for this project is to select a substantial and chunky vessel. You can use a vase or a lamp, but it shouldn't be super delicate or spindly. You want it to look like a heavy piece of artisinal pottery. I chose a lamp I got several years ago from TJ Maxx. It's a medium-sized lamp, but it's ceramic base was the perfect shape. I'd love to get a tapered shade for it, but this drum style still looks nice.

Prep Work

My mom recently told me about this technique of masking areas you don't want to paint using aluminum foil. You simply wrap any area you don't want paint on with foil and it works perfectly. It's great for projects that have larger areas to mask, or awkward shapes that don't lend themselves to tape. I wrapped the harp and base of the cord with foil and started spraying.

Spray Paint

I used Krylon Fusion All-In-One Paint + Primer in Matte Black for this project. You can get it at Lowe's. It has great control and it only took one coat for this project! Remember, the most important thing to remember when using spray paint is to make light coats. Otherwise, you'll have drips and thick areas. You really need to select a matte or flat sheen for this project. I use satin and high-gloss finishes for other things, but since you're imitating pottery, the matte finish is super important to its authenticity.

You'll want to get down low and look at your piece from another angle to be sure you have everything covered. There's almost always a spot you've missed. I let the paint dry completely before adding the dirt in the next step. It was approximately 139-degrees outside, so this took, like, 5 minutes and I had sweat all the way through my clothes.

Adding Wet Dirt aka Mud

I hesitate to say you need mud for this, because you really just need wet dirt--nothing too slimy. Our dirt here is extremely clay, so I mixed some dirt from my yard with some potting soil, added a little water and mixed it up. I ended up adding more dirt because I got too much water, so just picture damp dirt. It can still be a little powdery.

You can wear gloves for this, or not. You just take the wet dirt and smear it around the piece with your hand. I went with the shape of the lamp, smearing it back and forth in a horizontal motion (not up and down). I imagine you could swirl it a little bit, but you're mainly going to be applying it like you're polishing something.

Once it's dry, you can gently buff off the excess with a paper towel or dry cloth. Work until it is pretty smooth and it will be perfect, but be careful not to be too heavy handed and scrape off everything. Gentle is key.

If you do buff off too much, give that area a small spray of paint, let it dry and carefully apply some more dirt and repeat the gentle buffing process.

All Finished

Put your lampshade back on and you're all finished! This is a really easy and inexpensive project and great dupe for an expensive lamp. I can't wait to try this process out on some vases!

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Overstock Sale Rug Roundup

Tue, 16 Jun 2020 17:43:59 GMT

Overstock Sale

Overstock is having a great sale (with free shipping), and in the interest of ME not buying ALL THE RUGS, I want to share them with you! Full disclosure--I DID buy two of these and already own one, but at these prices, you can't pass it up. An area rug can really make or break your room, and I do switch mine out a lot, but mostly because I keep falling for different styles.

Some of these are the more traditionally textured rugs--meaning, they feel like carpet on your feet, but I've recently started loving the styles that are more of a pad with the design printed on them. They are great for kids playing on them, because toys will actual stand up, cars will roll and Lego blocks and Barbie shoes don't end up getting lost and vacuumed because of thick pile. They aren't what you'd call plush, but they do provide enough padding to make it more comfortable than sitting on a hard floor.

Lovato Bohemian Block Print Area Rug - 7'10" x 10'3" - Silver/Grey

This rug has that trellis style and very neutral colors. It's modern style could fit in so many rooms, and this size is only $128.69!! It comes in three colors, but I lean toward the neutral options.

Unique Loom Casino Sofia Area Rug - 8' x 10' - Ivory

This rug has just about the best price I've ever seen--even for a 9x12, which is usually $300-500, even on sale! I love the ivory and grey options, and with this rug's traditional style, I can't think of a room where it wouldn't work. An 8x10' size is only $116.31!

Alexander Home Isabelle Traditional Vintage Border Printed Area Rug - 2'3" x 3'9" - Olive/Charcoal

I have fallen in love with this pad style rug. It lays so flat and makes for easy clean-up. They are also great for layering over another rug. Alexander Home has so many beautiful rugs and I love their style. This particular rug has been really popular with Instagrammers and bloggers and has been sold out in the 8x10' size for a while, and since I missed it the first time around, I was sure to get it this time (for a great price)! The 8x10' ($181.25) is sold out again, so you'll have to keep an eye out for it, but it IS available in a larger 9x12' size, a runner and other smaller sizes. I'd love to see it in a bathroom or kitchen, or even as a mat in front of a door. The 5x7' size is $107.09.

Alexander Home Isabelle Traditional Vintage Border Printed Area Rug - 7'6" x 9'6" - Taupe/Stone

I bought this rug when I couldn't get the previous one, and it is so pretty. It definitely has more blue and cooler tones in it than I expected, but that works for our den. I'm thinking of moving this into one of the bedrooms or new office, but not totally sure yet. I think it would be nice in a boy's room because of the shades of blue and grey and generally masculine vibe. The price for this size is $191.24--less than I paid a couple months ago!!

Alexander Home Leanne Aztec Distressed Printed Area Rug - 5' x 7'6" - Gold/Blush

I've seen this rug online and love the combo of pinks, yellows and golds. It would be perfect for a little girl's room without being too cutesy. The Aztec print has a modern vibe and could really raise the cool-factor in your space. I love the interesting color combinations and this one is definitely worth mentioning. A 5x7' size is only $102.14.

Alexander Home Leanne Traditional Distressed Printed Area Rug - 7'6" x 9'6" - Grey/Apricot

This one is a little more than the others, at $192.52, but it's still under $200 for a large area rug of 7/6"x 9/6". I love the soft, muted colors and think it's vintage-style would look good in SO many spaces. I love it in a runner, which is only $56.94.

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Rust-Oleum Home Floor Coating for Painting Tile Floors

Fri, 12 Jun 2020 05:11:57 GMT

There IS a Right AND a Wrong Way to Paint Tile Floors

Let's start with this--there is definitely a right and wrong way to paint tile. I have done both. The funny thing is that the RIGHT way is actually easier than the wrong way. If you want to read about my experience doing the WRONG way, read about my experience using chalk paint and while you're at it, check out my rad pattern, because you can still use that technique using the right materials! Oh, and now I have experience laying luxury vinyl planks, so not all is lost. I am all about learning and fun new experiences.

Prepping the Floor

I used Krud Kutter to clean and degrease the floor. It prepares the surface for painting. You can immediately tell the tile is a different texture. Another important thing to have on hand is a hairdryer to blow off any dirt or hair, because, inevitably, it keeps finding it's way into the room. Also, wear clean socks while working. It helps if you don't wear them anywhere else so they don't bring in any dirt or dust. Oh, and tape off your baseboards, bathtub, toilet, etc. I like Frog Tape .

Rust-Oleum Home Floor Coating

Rust-Oleum Home Floor Coating is specifically made for painting tile floors. It is a two-step system that includes a base coat and sealer and can be completed in 1-2 days. It even has a "no peel" guarantee, which is awesome, since peeling was the problem with the chalk paint/poly combo. I've seen numerous bloggers/Instagrammers use this product over and over, so I was anxious to try it.

I purchased a kit that included a quart each of base coat and sealer, along with a floor prep solution for $39.99. You can also purchase it by the gallon, or individual quart. I didn't use the floor prep because I had already used Krud Kutter when I discovered it in the box. I knew from watching tutorials that Krud Kutter would be fine to use. I also noticed all the warnings on the bottle which scared me.

I chose to use Ultra White, but you can have the can of paint tinted at the paint counter in a dozen or more colors.

There are instructions on the cans, but I'll tell you what I did. I rolled on my first coat of white with a small foam roller. I did use a small artist's brush to get behind the toilet and in the grout along the baseboards in a few places. I let this dry for 6 hours.

Part 2

After 6 hours, I put my clean socks back on and went back for another coat. It says Ultra White takes 2 coats and the other tinted colors only take one. You can see I definitely needed another coat. It's still a little tacky when you're putting on the second coat. This needs to dry for another 6 hours, but I let mine dry overnight, since I was doing this at 10 pm. I learned from @AngelaRoseHome to wrap my paint roller in aluminum foil so it stays nice and fresh between paint jobs--genius!

Making your pattern

I wanted a pattern on this floor, but knew a stencil wouldn't work, because these tiles are textured and the paint would bleed under the stencil. There are about a million at Cutting Edge Stencils I would love to use, though! I had also tried (unsuccessfully) a sample of a removable tile decal, but it just doesn't work because of the textured edges. That would be a great option if you have smooth tiles--they can be custom-made to size. Hexagon Decor and BleUcoin on Etsy both have awesome designs.

I chose to do something in simple in our other bathroom , so I found a drink lid to make the pattern. I thought about using that same pattern in here, but decided it was too busy.

I was thisclose to keeping it solid white, but I painted a couple test designs in different colors on white paper and laid them down on the tile to decide. I wanted something simple that didn't compete with the wall too much, and distracted from the diagonal tile.

I chose to do a light grey pattern on each grout intersection, and since it was a VERY small amount of paint, I used chalk paint. I would definitely recommend using the Rust-Oleum product in a different color if you were having the design cover much of the floor. I am not concerned with this small amount of paint's durability.

Sealing

Once the paint was all dry, I rolled on one coat of the sealer and let it dry for a day. It is ready for foot traffic in 24 hours, and you can move furniture back in after 72 hours, but it isn't fully cured for 7 days. This was really easy. It's super thin and watery, so you don't use hardly any of it.

Finishing Everything Up

I didn't have much trouble with any part of this project. There were a couple small places where I didn't have the tape smooth that need to be touched up, but overall, this was very easy. I also used a straight edge/razor blade to help release the tape along the baseboards, since I had trouble with this with my other bathroom. I also took this opportunity to paint and caulk my baseboards, so everything looks super clean and fresh in here. Caulking really helps finish off the tile and I highly recommend it.

The CORRECT way to paint your tile floors

The Rust-Oleum product was a real win here. It really works and provides a beautiful result with the durability that matters. It is easier than trying to do this with something like chalk paint. I highly recommend it and painting all your old outdated tile. I think this would work wonders on an ugly back splash. You are really only limited by your imagination.

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Right and Wrong Way to Paint a Tile Floor

Thu, 11 Jun 2020 17:52:27 GMT

This post is a little different than the usual. For a couple days after painting our tile bathroom floor, I thought it was going to turn out to be a great project, but it didn't. So, here I want to share what I did right and wrong, and don't worry, I actually have a good way to paint a tile floor--this method just isn't it. So do as I say, not as I do!

Old Tile Bathroom Floor

The only flooring we didn't replace when we moved into our house was the tile in our bathrooms. It's about 12x12" beige textured tile. It's probably something that got put in between 2000-2010 and really isn't THAT offensive. It's totally functional, but not what I would personally pick out now. However, changing tile is a complicated, expensive and messy job, so it still stands. I actually LOVE having tile in both baths, because you don't have to worry at all about water getting on the floor.

Another reason I don't just want to replace the existing tile in our master bath is because I really want to do a larger bathroom update at some point. We have what I call a "hotel-style vanity" in our bedroom, just outside the shower/toilet/sink room. It's between our bath and walk-in closet in a little alcove and has a sink, vanity and mirror. I'd like to knock out the wall between the two and put a sliding door between the bathroom area and our bedroom, so we could have a larger bathroom.

Chalk Painting Tile

I've read numerous tutorials online about chalk painting your tile floors, all with mixed reviews. I already had leftover white chalk paint and polyurethane on hand, so I decided to go for it. I used Krud Kutter to clean and degrease the floor. It prepares the surface for painting. Another important thing to have on hand is a hairdryer to blow off any dirt or hair, because, inevitably, it keeps finding it's way into the room. Also, wear clean socks while working. It helps if you don't wear them anywhere else so they don't bring in any dirt or dust.

After taping off the baseboards, I put on two coats of Valspar Chalky Finish paint with a small foam roller. You can see the first and second coats below. It took a couple hours to dry between coats.

Making your pattern

I chose to do something simple, so I found a round object to do my circles. I actually used a drink lid for my guide and it worked great! I used a greige chalk paint with a small round brush to make the design on all the grout intersections, keeping all paint off the grouted area, so it looked like actual tile.

Sealing

Once the paint was all dry, I brushed on three coats of Minwax One Coat Polyurethane, letting it dry well between coats.

Problems I Encountered

I had quite a bit of trouble removing the tape. I hadn't really worried about the paint and sealer getting thick and puddling around the edges and behind the toilet, so when I removed it, it started to peel up all layers in some areas. I remedied some of the problem by using a razor blade to cut along the edges of the baseboard before pulling up the tape. I touched up any areas that needed it with some chalk paint and sealer.

I knew this wasn't going to work after a large chunk of paint peeled off after a small amount of water got on the floor next to the shower. I can't say what exactly the problem was, but I knew it wasn't durable enough for use. I am actually installing luxury vinyl in there now. I just think it's important to share when something doesn't work out, too, since not all projects are without problems.

The CORRECT way to paint your tile floors

All-in-all, the result of painting the tile was beautiful. I just wish I had read my post first and realized there was a right and a wrong way to do it. Don't despair--I actually have a terrific way to get the same look of painted tile at the same price (if not cheaper) that actually WORKS!!!! Enter, Rust-Oleum Home Floor Coating . I have a post of the entire process here! What I hope you'll take away from this post is an easy method for free handing a pattern and understand that painting tile can look great, but it's important to use the right products.

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How to Hang Art Over Board and Batten

Mon, 01 Jun 2020 21:47:42 GMT

Hanging Art Over Board and Batten

Hanging art over board and batten is beautiful, but can take a little finesse. If you just nail it into the wall, it will be sticking out at an angle because of the boards, so the key is to bring the hangers out to the level of the top board. You can do this several ways. You can attach a piece of a 2x4 to the studs horizontally and hang the picture from that board, like they did on the Shine Your Light blog . So, your art is actually starting 2" out from the wall. Here's another great tutorial .

You can also use a screw and picture hanging wire, like me. I hit a stud on one side (accidentally), so I just put a long screw in partially. On the other one, I used a drywall anchor and screwed in a screw partially, then hung the frames from their wires until they were even. It was so easy! Check out my board and batten tutorial and how I made these frames and large-scale art myself !

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DIY Large Scale Art

Mon, 01 Jun 2020 21:32:35 GMT

Large-Scale Art

I originally planned to order a large-scale art print from Juniper Print Shop , but for I wasn't totally sure what I wanted. I also wanted to save a little budget for adding cabinets and shelving to the window wall first, so that order may have to wait. I loved these botanical wood block prints, but I was also toying with the idea of a single large landscape, so I decided to try my hand at making something similar.

I sketched out the basic shapes of the duo on paper and drew more organic, unstructured leaves. I had planned for them to stay black and white, but the designs were just lost in the room, so I added greens and golds, which accidentally turned out to match the room perfectly!

Canvas

I bought a huge roll of canvas from my husband's cousin the other day, so it was the perfect time to try it out. I primed it with leftover white paint from the board and batten wall in the dining room. Then, I stretched it around a 20x30 foam core board from Michael's and used my staple gun to staple the canvas in place. Nothing fancy. I sketched the design from my paper onto the canvas and then used acrylic paint to paint the design.

Framing

Since I was trying to keep this SUPER economical, I didn't want to go out and buy giant frames, so I decided to make my own! Using two leftover 1x2x8 boards from our board and batten project, I had plenty of wood to make both 20x30 frames.

I measured each canvas with a tape measure and marked the length on all my boards. I double checked the measurements by laying the boards directly on the edges of the canvas to make sure they were correct. I made the 45-degree cuts with my Craftsman mitre box.

Once all the boards were cut, I used wood glue to put them together and a staple gun on the back to keep them in place.

My mom helped me with the next step--actually it was HER idea! To give the frames actual structure, one person held each joint in place while the other put a finishing nail through the side. This held them together well.

Painting the Frames

I intended to paint the frames black or stain them. Actually, I DID use several coats of gel stain on them until they were a dark walnut, but ultimately, it didn't look great in the space, or with the art, so I ended up spray painting them white again. It would've been a five-minute project if I'd done it originally, but who wants to do things the easy way? Oops. Haha.

Framing

These are pretty forgiving things to frame. The canvas and foam boards are flexible and soft, so it's easy to wedge them into the frames. The stay really well. I just pushed the canvases all the way back in the frames.

To attach something to hang them with, I just drove a small nail with a head partially into the back of the frame in the exact same spot on each side of the frame. I used some heavy-gauge wire to wrap around each nail and pulled it taught when I did it on the other side. It worked perfectly and they are very lightweight and easy to frame.

I hung these over my board and batten, which takes a little trick. If you need to know how to do it, check out my post here.

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DIY Board and Batten Wall

Mon, 01 Jun 2020 21:00:56 GMT

DIY Board and Batten

I did a diy of board and batten using faux vinyl planks in our master bedroom last year, but realized later it probably wouldn't be too much more difficult to create one out of actual boards. I had the perfect place to try it--our dining room. Our dining room is much longer than it is wide, so the long back wall (behind our table) has always given me fits for wall decor. I love the wall color, but it can be dark in there because of the small window and how the sun comes in, so I started imagining having the bottom of the wall white.

I gathered a lot of inspiration images on Instagram and Pinterest, and loved the idea of hanging wall art OVER the board and batten. I didn't want to be limited to the small area above the wall treatment--especially since we have 8' ceilings, and I wanted the white area to come up as high as possible to increase the light in the room.

Supplies & Instructions

You'll need to decide how you want to do your board and batten. I have fairly new baseboards, so I didn't want to remove them. If you are keeping your baseboards, you have two options. You can add a 1x2 board just above the baseboard, so your battens just set directly on top and are the same width as the bottom board.

Or, you can just do a 45-degree cut on the bottom of each batten, so it sets on the small lip of your existing baseboards. This is the option I chose, but if I didn't have a mitre box, I would have had to do it the other way. I mostly preferred the look of this in my space.

Once you decide which style you want to go with, you'll need to measure the length of your room. I needed 3 1x3x8 boards to cover the top flat board. I decided I would need between 6-8 1x2s for the battens, since I didn't want the battens too close together. I also got 3 1x2x8 boards for the top ledge. I purchased preprimed white boards for all of these, since I was going to be painting them white, anyway, and figured I could use the head start. It's only a few dollars more for a project this size, so it was worth the extra expense.

You'll also need the following:

Drill

Hammer

1 1/2" finishing nails (or screws)

Stud Finder

Level

Laser Level (not totally necessary, but it's the perfect job for this tool)

Wood Putty

Sand Paper

Caulk Tube

Painter's Tape

Paint

Saw/Mitre Saw/ Mitre Box

Painting & Attaching 1x3 Board

First you'll need to determine the height of your board and batten wall. You should generally work in thirds, so since I wanted mine as high as possible, I chose to go 2/3 the way up my 8' wall, so about 5'3.3". I measured and marked that height about 3 places across the wall, then used the level function of my Craftsman laser level and drew a light pencil line across the wall. I did double check it with a regular level.

After I had my line marked, I rolled two coats of white paint (SW Alabaster) on the wall. Don't worry about having the line perfectly straight on the top--it will be disguised by the top board. Once the paint was dry, it was time to attach the 1x3 board to the wall. I used my stud finder to mark the studs across the entire wall. I even checked them with my drill because I am never very confident in my stud-finding abilities. Haha.

I used my mitre box to make a 45-degree cut on three ends of the wood (anywhere it had a joint with another board. Starting on the left, I attached the board to the studs with a screw. I actually started trying to nail it up, but my nails weren't long enough, so I just went with screws. Nails would be better, but I didn't have the correct size and it wasn't easy to run to the store because of Coronavirus, so I used what I had. My dad reminded me the nails needed to be long enough to go through the board AND drywall before catching the stud. Mine were just catching the drywall, which is why they wouldn't hold. This was the biggest problem I had with this entire project and it was entirely user error (as usual), so learn from my mistakes.

Attaching the Vertical Boards

I cut all the battens to a 45-degree angle on the bottom and to the appropriate length (top of baseboard to bottom of 1x3 board) using my mitre box and saw. I love this thing!

Then, I attached them with 1 1/2" finishing nails, using a level making sure I had the board totally straight. If you have a nail gun, this would be easier, but it totally works using a hammer. A nail gun is one of those tools I'm still afraid of getting hurt with. Plus, I'm getting better at hammering now. I basically attached a batten at every other stud. You could do every stud, if you wanted, but I didn't want it to be that busy. Once I had the correct length nails, it was much easier to add the battens. I just used a nail at the top and bottom of the board, and one in the middle if it wasn't laying nicely. Remember, your walls may not be totally smooth or flat.

After I got all the battens in place, I added the remaining 1x2 boards to create a ledge on top of the 1x3s. I used my mitre box to make 45-degree cuts at all joints and screws each board into place.

Wood Filler

Once all the boards were up, it was time for the wood filler. I used a Minwax brand. I just put it on over all the nails and screws, and along any wood joints. I let it dry and sanded it off with my electric sander, but a block of sandpaper would get the job done.

Caulk

Caulk is complete magic. It makes an average job look professional and covers all sorts of mistakes. Don't skip this step. It may be the most important. I don't like using a caulk gun, because they are hard to use and there is so much waste with small jobs. I discovered a squeeze tube of caulk at Lowe's, so that's my go-to. You should caulk anywhere the boards meet the wall or has a gap. Once you have your bead of caulk, you'll want to dip your finger in a cup of water and run it along the crease. It works perfectly.

After you caulk, it's time to paint again. I gave all the boards two coats, and then one more coat on the walls. I used a small 6" foam roller for everything, and wrapped it in aluminum foil between painting, so it didn't dry out.

I am so excited to have completed this project. It looks like I hired someone to do it, and it probably cost me about $100 total--and that's including premium paint! I used the rest of the gallon of white to paint the window wall, because we plan to add cabinets and shelving down there. I just love the interest it created in this room and how much it brightened things up!

If you want to check out my tutorial on creating large-scale art and hanging it over board and batten, check it out here.

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DIY Concrete Bowls and Trays

Sun, 17 May 2020 04:03:39 GMT

Cement Bowls

I originally saw this diy hack on Joinery & Design Co. on Instagram (@joineryanddesignco) a few weeks ago. The husband-wife team chronical their adventures building and decorating their beautiful new home. It definitely has a modern style--lots of whites, blacks and neutrals, and I love it! They shared this really cool and cheap project making their own cement bowls for decor and now all the home bloggers on the internet are also doing it. I'm late to the party, but I figured I better give it a shot.

Cement bowls and trays are all the rage. Here's one below from Restoration Hardware for $125. I'm going to show you how to make as many as you want for closer to $10.

Supplies & Instructions

Plastic bowls in various nesting sizes

Bag of concrete

Drill with paddle mixer attachment

Vegetable oil or Pam cooking spray

5-gallon bucket

I used a 5-gallon bucket for mixing my concrete--I used a 60-pound bag of Quikrete from Lowes. I had my husband pour in a small amount of concrete to the bucket, because, man, it's HEAVY! I added water with the hose until it looked a little soupy. They say you want the consistency of batter. Then, I mixed it up really well with my Craftsman drill and paddle mixer.

Greasing the Molds

I ordered a pack of flexible plastic nesting bowls from Walmart that came with lids for my molds. I drilled 3 holes around the edge of the top (smaller) bowls for screws to stick in, so they wouldn't sink too far in, but I'm not sure if that was totally necessary. I'd seen other people do that, so I wanted to play it safe. My screws were too small and short for the holes I made, so I stuck a couple long nails in each.

If you want to make multiple bowls, it's important to grease your molds with vegetable oil/cooking spray. I just used Canola oil. I just poured a little on anything that the concrete would touch. I don't have a photo of this step because I my hands were covered in oil. I decided to try to make some trays, too, since I had the lids just sitting there.

Once everything is greased, it's time to pour in the concrete. I actually used a spade to scoop it into the bowls, because, like I said, that concrete is heavy! It was also easier to control the amount, too. I filled the bowls about halfway and pressed in the smaller bowl to see if I needed more or less concrete. I did the same thing for the trays, trying to get the tops as smooth as possible with my spade.

I used some bricks and rocks to weigh everything down, because otherwise, the top bowl will float.

Then, I placed all the molds in the garage, so they wouldn't be in direct sun. I saw a demo on Instagram and someone mentioned their bowls in direct sunlight kept cracking, so I wanted mine to be in the shade.

It's also important not to try to unmold these too soon. I learned this from watching a bunch of other peoples' experiences on Instastories. So, I was patient and waited until the next day to check them. Mine easily unmolded. I took out the smaller top bowls first, then the larger ones came off when I turned them upside down and gently broke the seal. I did the same thing with the trays, coaxing off the plastic lids by gently bending them around the perimeter until the came off. Everything was still kind of wet where it was touching the plastic, so I flipped them upside down and let them dry some more.

The next day, they were quite a bit dryer and I could handle them a little more. I just flipped them again. You can see their wet prints on the garage floor.

Once they are good and dry and you can comfortably handle them, take a block of sandpaper and sand the top edge of the bowl to smooth it out. I did this by hand, but ended up using my electric sander to sand off the pouring spouts on the bowls from my molds. It came off super easy. I also carefully sanded the edges and bottoms of all the trays.

I absolutely love how these bowls turned out. I can see using them in the house for décor, a tray to corral objects, or even outside for a planter and tray underneath. They look super cute with a plant inside or filled with a collection of small items. I plan on making more with the rest of my bag of Quickrete. The best part is you can make TONS for $10!! I think it will be fun to experiment with different molds and shapes. I hope you'll give this a try!

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DIY Smear Art for Kids (and Adults!)

Tue, 12 May 2020 20:08:59 GMT

Art Fun with Kids!

This is a perfect project for a rainy day, OR a sunny day, so you can take the mess outside! It's a super quick project for kids (or adults!) and yields a pretty cute result, so here's how to get started. You probably have everything you need already at home.

You'll just need some acrylic paint, cardstock and a surface to paint. It can be a canvas, cardstock, paper, whatever you want. Cut some strips/squares of stiff cardstock into small pieces or use something like a cereal box. I've used old business cards, too. I like to pick out the colors I want to use before starting. See what looks good together and pick a handful. You don't have to use every color in this project--less is more.

I wanted this to be fun and youthful, so I chose a palette of bright and whimsical colors.

You'll just squirt drops of paint in different areas around the canvas, and use your cardstock to smear it around the canvas. You'll want to flip the cards over so you are using the clean side each time. Try to only smear each one in one swipe so you don't muddy the colors too much. You might need to help your little ones with this, but I found that they told be they could "do it myself." haha At this point, you just need to wait for it to dry!

Framing and Displaying

This may not look to impressive now, but once you frame it, it will look like something you bought! Figure out what size frame you're using and use the mat or display image for a template and trace an area of your art and cut it out. Place it back in the frame and you're all done! I like using a frame with a larger mat for this. You could also use a floating frame. I like to use pieces like this in gallery walls or for styling shelving. These colors are perfect for a kid's room, so that's where they landed here!

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Jenny Lind Dresser Makeover

Mon, 11 May 2020 18:32:21 GMT

I found this little Jenny Lind style dresser on Facebook Marketplace and I had to have it. I love the look of Jenny Lind and while I would probably ordinarily try to make this work in our daughter's room by painting it white or pastel colors, I decided to do the opposite.

When I'm looking for something to buy, I want to make sure it is in pretty decent condition and that I like the lines of the piece. Some things, even I don't have much vision for, but this classic little dresser pulled on my heartstrings the moment I saw it.

Prepping the Piece

Once I got the piece home, I could see it wasn't solid wood, but wood veneer over mdf, so any chance of sanding and refinishing it was out the window. Luckily, painting it was my real first choice, anyway.

I cleaned the dresser with Windex and a paper towel, inside and out. Then, I applied wood putty with a little trowel on any areas where the veneer exterior was chipped and let it dry. I focused on the areas around the drawer pulls, since there was some wear here.

Removing the 80s Decorative Piece

See that little decorative cut-out on the bottom front of the dresser? I don't like that, but guess what? I can fix it! It isn't structural at all; it's purely decorative, so you can easily remove it. I used a flat screwdriver with a hammer, but you can use a pry bar, too. I didn't want to use ours, because the last time I used it, I got poison ivy and I wanted to wash it first. Or, you can have your dad remove it. It looks like he is having a good time. He is here wearing his favorite USTA sweatshirt from 2003. He would probably want me to mention that.

I measured the existing trim piece, which was 6" wide, so I used a 1x6x6 board to cut a replacement piece. I cut a board to size with my trusty Craftsman hand saw and used wood glue and finishing nails to hold it in place. I ended up doing the same 1x6 boards on the sides, too. I just put on the wood glue and used 2" finishing nails to hold it on. After it was nailed in, I filled all the nail holes with wood putty. Oh, and I sanded all three boards and edges really well.

Painting

I used a can of black spray paint by Krylon that was recommended for plastic, metal, wood, etc., and sprayed a light coat on the dresser and drawers. I ended up putting 3-4 coats on total, but the key is light coats. Oh, and a dry, sunny day. Never try to paint when it's wet out.

Varnish

Once the paint was nice and dry, I used a can of water-based Polyurethane to varnish the piece. I applied it in long, smooth strokes with a 2" nylon brush. I but on 2-3 coats and it's super smooth and has a beautiful satin sheen.

Hardware

I didn't mind the shape of the existing hardware--it was just small round knobs, but they weren't in great condition. So, smeared Rubb'n'Buff in Antique gold all over them and let them dry before reattaching. It makes things the most beautiful gold. I like to wear gloves to do it, so I don't have to scrub my hands so much after using it.

This was my first experience removing and replacing trim from furniture and it totally blew my mind! You can't believe the furniture I've turned up my nose at because it had some small detail I didn't like. Now I know some of these things can be easily changed to fit your style! I absolutely love how this little dresser turned out. I keep moving it around our house to see where I like it best, but you just can't beat it against this white wall. I hope you'll tackle a piece and make it your own!

If you liked this furnit

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DIY Rustic Fireplace Mantle

Sat, 09 May 2020 18:39:36 GMT

The Old Mantle

We lived with the original mantle for years. We painted the brick fireplace SW Dover White (a great creamy white) and spray painted the existing brass mantle black with high-heat spray paint. That's one of my favorite easy makeover tips that literally anyone can do. It's amazing how it freshens up the entire fireplace area.

I even traded out the old mantle for a chunky 2" board I stained grey, but I was never overly impressed with it. I didn't like that the focus of our fireplace were these huge brick stairstep supports. I also knew there was no easy way to remove them. Basically, the existing mantle sets on top of them and is secured by two screws in the underside of the mantle that fit into a hole in the top brick supports on either side.

I've had several people express interest in a tutorial on this, so here's my attempt. I really didn't intend to do one, since I don't feel like an expert in this at all, but I will share what worked for me with my very limited set of basic tools.

Constructing the New Mantle Box

You are basically building a box for your new mantle. I used a hand saw, drill, electric sander, 2" finishing nails, 2" wood screws, 1/2" wood screws, and wood glue. Oh, and stain.

You'll first need to determine the length of your mantle. I wanted it to go the length of our brick surround, which was under 8'. You could also take it out past the bricks--that can look good, too. I purchased the following boards from Lowe's for around $30.00:

2 1x8x8" white boards

1 1x10x8" white board

You'll need to cut the two boards the correct length, which is the length you want your mantle. I used a hand saw.

I wanted the mantle to be as wide as possible in the front to cover the existing brick mantle supports, so I went with a 10" wide board. (The exact measurements of all these are like 1/4" less, so keep that in mind).

You might be able to get away with an 8" wide board, if you don't want it as wide.

I used the 1x8x8" board for the top of my mantle (what everything is setting on). So I didn't have a seam where the boards join across the entire front of the mantle, I constructed it where the 1x10x8 was the front portion of the mantle. To do this, you'll been two people (or a huge set of clamps). I bought a set of clamps online at Lowe's thinking I could do it myself with them, but when I got them, they were tiny little elf clamps. #onlineshoppingproblems

Put wood glue along the front edge of the 1x8x8 and position it where it comes to a 90-degree angle with the 1x10x8. I used two stacks of books, so I could set the 1x10x8 on its side and stacked books so the 1x8x8 would be at the correct height for fastening. Press the boards against each other and have the other person hold everything into place so you can put some nails through the front of the 1x10x8 into the side of the 1x8x8. Carefully move down the entire length of the board, putting in several nails across the front, so it is not moving.

Once you have the basic L-shaped structure, you can start adding stability with screws. I used black 2" screws. I drilled 4-5 pilot holes across the top edge of the 1x10x8 (between the nails), then screwed in the 2" screws.

I went ahead and added some corner braces on the back, because I had them, but you could probably skip this step. That's where I used 1/2" screws to fasten them. Let everything dry overnight and be sure to wipe any excess glue off the front of the mantle.

Adding the Sides

This is what that extra 1x8x8 is for. Now that the glue is nice and secure, it's time to add the sides to your mantle box. Since it may not be totally square (90-degrees), you may want to do what I did and trace the angle of the L-shape onto your board, so you can cut it more closely to what the shape actually is. It doesn't have to be perfect, but you want to get it as close as possible.

Once I cut my board to the correct length and angle to fit into that little end, I refit it to see what needed adjusted. If I needed to take off a little more, I just used my electric sander to sand it down so I could get a better fit. This worked nicely for me. Again, I was just using this tool to make it work. This is one of the reasons I feel like I "hacked" this project. :)

I did the same thing for the other side. I added wood glue to the two sides connected to the L-shape on the mantle and secured it with finishing nails, the screws through the top of the mantle (on the 1x8x8).

I also used my sander to sand down the sides where everything fits together. I wanted it to be as smooth and even as possible.

At this point, you could add wood veneer, attach it and sand it down if you don't want to have that side seam, but it's expensive and the seam turned out pretty smooth, so I'm not worrying about it.

Oh, and if your mantle goes all the way to the wall or shelving on the edges, you may not even need sides!

Staining

I used a mix of Minwax stain in Chestnut and Minwax Gel Stain in Walnut for the mantle. I sanded it between coats to get it as smooth as possible. I originally intended to go lighter, but ended up liking it darker and it helped the screws disappear.

Attaching it to the Fireplace

Our mantle just sets directly on the existing brick supports. It is pretty secure like that, but to be sure it doesn't budge, we put one screw on each side that fits into a hole in the top of the brick supports.

If you don't have this exact structure, you may need to screw a 2x4 into the brick with masonry screws, so you have something to fasten your mantle onto. There are tons of great tutorials on this from people with much more expertise than me. Check Pinterest and search "diy mantle box" or "diy wood mantle".

I love how our mantle turned out. It really is an easy project anyone can do. I love that it totally covers up our old brick supports and transformed our fireplace! I didn't even add a piece on the underside, because unless you're sitting on the hearth, you really can't see that it isn't there. I hope you'll try this and if you do, let me know how it goes on Facebook or Instagram @grey.snail.press!

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Backyard Black and White Shed Makeover

Sun, 03 May 2020 22:20:21 GMT

The Old Shed

When we moved into our house, the shed was already there. We were thisclose to giving it away because we thought we didn't need it, but thank goodness we didn't, because I love having a place to store extra we don't often need and yard stuff. It was originally painted tan with white trim and my husband painted it a couple years ago in new colors (teal, cream and buff) in a huge rush right before they installed our fence. It needed painted again, so I started thinking out of the box.

Repainting

I knew I wanted something that went with the house better, and was more of a focal point instead of eyesore. I have no idea why this never dawned on me before, but I suddenly realized we didn't have to paint all the trim a different color--duh! My first thought was to go black since it was already dark and might be easier, but with the white windows, I really wanted to choose something that blended well with what we already had. Enter, white paint.

There are plenty of great inspiration photos on Pinterest for black and white sheds, and that's where I started. I loved the idea of having it look more like a little cottage than a shed, so I decided to add shutters, window boxes and remove some of the barn-looking trim on the doors.

Normally, I'd choose to have my paint tinted to a specific shade of white, but Coronavirus. Instead, I did a Lowe's pick-up and ordered a gallon of exterior white paint, along with a small (tiny) can of Krylon black interior/exterior paint.

I painted the entire shed and all trim white. Well, that is, besides the back (behind the fence), because I ran out of paint and have to get more! So, it definitely takes 2 gallons! I also made the mistake of not buying rollers with a thick enough nap, so they'd get into the spaces between the panels on the shed. I ended up having to brush ALL of the cracks by hand. Learn from my mistakes and buy a roller with a thick nap for this textured project.

I removed the diagonal wood pieces on the shed doors. They were too rustic for me and not the look I was going for. Then, painted both doors solid black.

Shutters

When I discovered I had enough room for some small shutters, I was thrilled! I love the look of natural cedar, so I purchased 1x4x8 and 1x2x8 boards to make them, along with some 2" wood screws. I cut two 1x4 boards each to 32" to make each shutter. Then cut my 1x2 the width of the two boards, to fit across the boards and hold them together. I did all this with my handheld Craftsman saw.

I sprayed one coat of Thompson's Water Seal on the front and back of each shutter before hanging them. I love the natural finish it provides.

You'll need two people to get them up. I screwed each shutter in using the existing four screws on each. Someone held the shutter tightly agains the shed and I screwed each one in a little at a time, until it was secure.

I also only calculated enough lumber for two shutters, but was able to stretch it into three. You can see our little three-shuttered shed here! Remember--two windows need FOUR shutters. Color inspiration from our Boston Terrier!

Flower Boxes

I had cedar flower boxes built for the front of our house a few years ago, so I absolutely love a flower box, but I wanted these to be a little more budget friendly. I bought two black plastic planters from Lowe's, drilled holes in the bottom so water will drain, and drilled a couple holes on the back side to screw it into the shed wall, just under each window.

I filled them with dirt and pink geraniums, which usually do well in flower boxes. I always recommend using Miracle Grow Moisture Soil so they stay moist in these kinds of planters. They usually dry out easier than normal pots.

Our New (Old) Shed

I worked until after 9 pm to get as much of this done as possible, since it was supposed to rain the next day. I also just couldn't wait to see what everything looked like together! I had my husband out there holding up shutters for me, only using the light on the end of the drill see! I really couldn't love it more--I am so excited about this project it makes me want to do a little dance!

I'm amazed at what a difference these small details and color choices made in our backyard and very inexpensively. I'd still like to get something besides the lattice, but a girl can only do so much in one weekend!

Here are some tips. Don't just keep painting over what's already there with different colors. Think about what you are attracted to in inspiration photos you admire. I finally realized we didn't need all that contrast trim--there wasn't one picture I liked with it. It is so much cleaner and more modern with it all one color. Also think about safe color choices. Does your choice go with your house? It's right next to it, so it should blend well. If you're on a budget, you don't have to give up the details you love. Figure out how to get the same or similar look with cheaper materials, or make something yourself. The shutters and window boxes were super simple and really budget-friendly. I hope you'll enjoy and take some of these ideas to make something in your backyard (or life) more beautiful!

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Smear Paint Abstract Art

Fri, 01 May 2020 00:36:20 GMT

Inspiration

I got the idea for this technique I'm referring to as "smear art" from a @Moglea Instagram post. The video featured this mesmerizing technique of dropping blobs of paint on a surface and using a stiff card to smear it across the surface, creating these interesting colors and patterns.

Moglea creates these really unique and truly one-of-a-kind cards and notebooks from their studio in Iowa. They have such interesting techniques, textures and color combos you can really pick out their work in a crowd. I love trying new things, so I thought it might be fun to experiment with this technique myself.

Materials

You'll need different colors of acrylic paint, a few pieces of rigid cardstock (or something stiff) & a surface for your design. I did several, starting with a small store bought canvas. It also works on heavy cardstock, but for my larger pieces, I used canvas.

I have a bunch of scrap canvas from my husband's cousin, who owns an awning business. I'm having all kinds of fun finding ways to use it, but one of my favorites is to make a wall hanging. I did one for my laundry room to cover up our electrical box and I LOVE it.

Process

I simply squirted drops of acrylic paint from the tubes directly on the canvas. I figured out the color palette for each piece before, and started dropping paint on the surface in random little dot patterns.

From there, I took a piece of chipboard in my hand and swiped it across the drops of paint, spreading the paint all over the surface. I made squiggles and curves, just doing whatever I wanted. The paint doesn't spread as much on the unprimed canvas, so it is a slightly different effect than on a slicker surface.

Easy Modern Wall Hanging

I love the modern aesthetic of a wall hanging and they are surprisingly easy to make! I like to do mine with canvas and use an inexpensive wooden dowel rod from Hobby Lobby. I stained them with Minwax stain in Natural, to keep that lighter, blond wood look. You can attach the dowels to the top and bottom of the canvas by hot gluing it on the front, or you can use a regular stapler to staple it on. Then, tie a string or yarn on the top dowel to hang it up and it's done!

You can use that technique again and again. It's so easy and inexpensive. I think this could be a really fun project with kids. I can see making t-shirts or frameable art for the house.

Painted Wood Desk Makeover

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 20:48:52 GMT

Finding a Desk

I love looking for secondhand furniture and décor to redo, so when I saw the River City Mission Yard Sale was happening, I insisted my husband take me there after lunch. I am SO glad he did, because I found this gem for $35.00!

This gorgeous desk was in great condition, and honestly, would have been fine to use as is, but I wanted something more youthful and fun for our son's room.

Painting the Desk

I chose to use chalk paint for this project because I didn't want to have to prep the surface of the desk in any way--I was ready to get started! First, I removed the hardware and set it aside. I just spray painted it in a hammered oil-rubbed bronze spray paint by Rustoleum.

I used a mustard-colored chalk paint and brushed on 2- 3 coats on the entire surface of the desk. The drawers did not come out, so I had to work carefully to get the front drawer areas done.

Distressing

I used some sandpaper wrapped around a block to distress some areas on the edge and the top, before varnishing.

Varnish

I used my favorite Liquitex Varnish in a satin finish for this desk. It is by far the best varnish I have ever used--not the cheapest, but it gives an unmatched finish. Since this was a surface we'd be setting stuff on and writing on, I wanted it to be super smooth, so I put on at least 3 coats, sanding in between coats. If you sand after each coat dries, you will get a perfect finish.

The Finished Product

I love how this desk turned out. The mustard yellow is just perfect in this little boy's navy bedroom. When you're looking for furniture to refinish or paint, don't worry too much about how it currently looks. Check out the condition, lines and details of the piece and see if there's something worth working with. I loved the size and shape of this desk, in addition to the geometric details. I knew it could be something special and it is to me.

Master Bedroom Inspiration

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 20:29:31 GMT

Initial Color and Design

I want to share some of my master bedroom inspiration with you, since I think that can be helpful to see where some of the ideas came from when designing a space. It’s nice to see different versions and interpretations to things.

When we moved into our house, we painted the yellow master bedroom a faded blue (Sherwin Williams Krypton) and had a mix of new/old furniture with a farmhouse feel. I was never totally crazy about the color in that particular room. It was darker and bluer than I desired, but I put off changing it since we’d had a professional painter do it.

Wall Sconces

Sometimes I struggle with having enough room on our nightstands, and our large lamps take up quite a bit of the surface. I’ve seen TONS of swing arm wall sconces online lately and love the look. It also totally frees up your nightstand for other items!

You can have them wired in, but they also make plug in sconces, so that’s what I’m going for–no electrician required!!

I love this brass Glass Globe Sconce Wall Light by Project 62 at Target. It’s ultra modern and sleek, and a little different than the typical swing arm designs. It’s also on sale for $43.99 right now, so that has a lot of appeal!

You can have them wired in, but they also make plug in sconces, so that’s what I’m going for–no electrician required!!

I love these brass sconces from Little House of Four. The look so high-end and the brass really pops against that smoky wall. And surprise–the lights are actually Wray Modern Industrial Up Down Swing Arm Wall Lights Set of 2 Lamps Dark Brown Sconce from Amazon that she spray painted and covered in Gold Leaf Rub and Buff. Now I’m wishing I’d picked up two wall sconces I saw at a yard sale a few weeks ago. I’ve never used that product, but plan on trying it on something soon!!

Color

I really want to go with something more neutral on the walls for our master bedroom–think white, cream, light beige, etc. I’d also like to bring in a darker color somewhere, and instead of straight up gray, I’m really crushing on mid and dark greens.

I love this image by Hunter Premo with the deep green accent wall.

I could save all of Chris and Julia’s images and put here, but the main thing I’m inspired by is the color. They just did a Phase 1 kitchen renovation and did all the cabinets in a mid green and it is so good! Chris Loves Julia does everything well.

Wall Treatment

I’ve been wanting to try out some sort of wall treatment after doing my Faux Shiplap with No Nails laundry room accent wall a few weeks ago. Chris Loves Julia did vertical shiplap for their backsplash in the photo above.

100 Things 2 Do does a full board and batten wall in medium green behind their bed.

Texture and Finishes

Overall, I want a clean, fresh room that still feels cozy, and A Thoughtful Place really nails it. Her use of colors and textures is just perfect. The dark dresser with gold hardware is spot on. I love the mixture of black with gold accents. I’m also crazy about a big statement wall of photos.

Puling Everything Together

I am so inspired by these images (and MORE!) for our little refresh. Finding master bedroom inspiration is easy; the difficult part is figuring out what you like best and what works together in YOUR space. Of course, there are also budget constraints, but I’m a firm believer that you can still have a beautiful space you love without breaking the bank. That’s my quest for now, so wish me luck and we’ll see where we end up!

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DIY Dresser Makeover

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 20:00:58 GMT

I’m hooked on furniture updates, and boy, did I have the perfect candidate: my husband’s dresser. I honestly can’t believe it’s the same piece, so follow along with how I completed this DIY dresser makeover.

It was a dark (almost black) stained dresser from Ashley and came with a matching nightstand I already updated and full bed we no longer own. The piece had good bones, but the top had been scratched a little, and I never liked the drawer pulls. I even tried to spray paint the existing handles gold last year, because they were an irregular size and it wasn’t easy to find a replacement. Even as gold handles, they just weren’t pretty. I stared at it on a regular basis, being totally stumped over the drawer pulls.

Just Change the Hardware

Finally, I figured out I just needed to CHANGE the handles completely. I removed the old handles and filled in the holes with wood filler. That way, I could have the style and configuration of handles I wanted.

If you’re filling in the holes, you need to paint the piece so you won’t be able to tell where the old drawer pulls were.

To fill in the holes, you’ll need to put wood filler into the existing holes until it’s even, or just above, the rim of the hole. Then, use a straight edge to scrape off the excess. You may need to repeat this process more than once and sand it a little at the end. I finished any stubborn areas that were difficult to get smooth with Drywall Patch and Primer and used the sander on the cap to smooth everything out.

Paint It

I primed the dresser with chalk paint, so there’s no need to sand or prep the surface in any way. I did the same method with my nightstand. It was kind of a pain to paint, because the drawers didn’t come all the way out. My hands got pretty dirty getting in between the drawers.

I finished the dresser with two coats of latex paint. I just used leftover paint and had a mix of Rock Bottom and Station Gray both by Sherwin Williams. It turned out to be a dark, warm gray.

Varnish

I used 3 coats of Liquitex matte varnish to seal all the painted areas. I applied it with long, smooth strokes across the top, sides and drawer fronts so it has a nice, smooth finish. This is my favorite brand varnish to work with, as its finish can’t be beat. It’s available in several different sheens—high gloss, gloss and matte. Gloss is similar to the sheen of satin, and that is probably my favorite, but I tried matte out for this project and am happy with the result. It still has a beautiful finish, but isn’t reflective at all.

Drilling New Holes

Since all the old hardware holes were gone, I had to make new ones! I wanted to put a single leather drawer pull on the top three drawers, so I used a tape measure to mark the center of each drawer and drilled a hole with my drill that was large enough to accommodate the hardware screw. I used the same technique when I did my bone inlay nightstand .

The bottom drawers each got two modern brass cylinder-shaped knobs, so I centered them and put each hole 6” from the edge of the drawer.

Hardware

I made my own DIY leather drawer pulls for the top three drawers. They were mixed them with some modern, brass cylinder-shaped drawer pulls for the larger four bottom drawers. I got the pulls on Amazon for about $13 for a set of 10, so it was a great deal. They were brass, but I sprayed them with a metallic gold Martha Stewart spray paint to get them more of a gold color, but the difference is pretty subtle.

New Dresser

When I look at our new dresser, I almost forget it’s not actually a NEW dresser, but one we’ve had for years. It looks completely different after the DIY dresser makeover. Now it looks like something I would buy somewhere, and goes so nicely in our newly refreshed master bedroom.

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DIY Easy Build Ledge Shelf

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 19:41:37 GMT

Easy Ledge Shelf

This is one of those projects I put off and put off, thinking it was probably only easy for SOME people—you know, the kinds of people who owned table saws and nail guns. But I was SO wrong! This DIY easy ledge shelf is a building project ANYONE can tackle and requires zero special tools. You have a hammer, right? Can you use glue and hammer a nail? I thought so.

Supplies

• 2 1×4” boards

• 1 1×2” board

• Wood glue

• Finishing nails

• Hammer

• Wood stain

Process

You can buy your boards in any length you want and cut them down to size. You can also find precut 4’ boards at Lowe’s that work well for a nice-sized shelf.

The 1×4 will be the bottom of your shelf; the other 1×4 will be the back. Put a thin line of wood glue on the entire back edge of the 1×4 and press the other 1×4 onto it at a 90-degree angle, so it forms an L-shape. When it’s perfectly lined up, nail several finishing nails into the back to hold it into place. Wipe off any excess glue with a rag or paper towel.

The 1×2 will be the front side of the shelf, acting as a lip so your frames will stay up and not fall off. Using the same process as you did for the back, apply a thin line of glue along the side of the 1×4 on the bottom, press the 1×2 onto it (making a 90-degree L-shape) and adjust it to line up. Then, secure it the same way with several nails in the front. I used 3-5. Wipe off any excess glue.

The important thing is to attach the front and back boards to the OUTside of the flat (middle) board, so your nails are going in from the sides. If you attach the front/back boards to the top, (and nail from the bottom), when you start putting stuff on the shelf, it will fall apart. Don't ask me how I know this, but I know.

Staining

Now you’re ready for staining! I used Minwax Gel Stain in walnut for my shelf, lightly applying it with a paper towel and immediately wiping it off. It still wound up pretty dark. Let it dry for several hours until it’s not tacky.

Installation

You basically screw the shelf into the studs in a couple places. To do this, you need to locate the studs with a stud finder. Once you locate the studs, mark them. Then, decide the height then you want to hang it, hold the shelf up against the wall with a level on it and mark the top a couple places with a pencil.

Mark where you’ll need to put the screws on the shelf with a pencil and make sure the marks are level. I used a laser level to make sure, but make sure your screw are toward the top edge of the back so they’re easy to screw in.

Once you have the everything marked, it’s a good idea to drill a pilot hole in the wall and shelf for your screw. After you have your pilot holes, put your shelf in place and screw it into the wall with a long screw.

Easy Shelves

Now you’re all ready to start adding decor to your DIY easy ledge shelf! This shelf is so simple and budget-friendly, I’ve made several more for our home! I love the idea of a super long ledge shelf above a couch or bed, where you can easily change out artwork and decorations. I can totally see adding seasonal decor to this type of display.

I've already built this shelf for a couple other areas of my home in different sizes and I love them all!

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Canvas Art Wall Hanging

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 05:47:04 GMT

DIY Canvas Art

My husband's cousin has an awning business and offered to give me some scraps to play around with, so of course, I took him up on it! I LOVE canvas wall hangings, so I immediately thought to try that out first!

Our laundry room has a giant electrical box on the back wall to which we (obviously) need access, but it's not the prettiest thing to look at, so I decided to make something to cover it! I initially thought of using a poster frame, but that would still be somewhat heavy and cumbersome to remove when you need to access the box. Then, I remembered the canvas and decided a wall hanging would be the perfect solution--pretty, lightweight and easy to move when we need to flip a breaker, (which I have done TWICE this week!)

I measured the box and cut a piece of black canvas slightly wider and longer, so it covered the box area nicely. Then, I just grabbed some of the latex paint from the laundry room makeover and painted a really rough potted cactus. Because, well, I love them, even though we live where none grow naturally.

Then, I cut some wooden dowels to size, stained them with a light coat of Minwax Gel Stain in Walnut, and stapled the top and bottom of the canvas to the dowels. I attached a piece of string with staples, and hung it up over the electrical box with a nail.

Sometimes you have to think outside of the typical art materials to solve your problems, and this canvas did the trick!

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Weekend Laundry Room Makeover

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 05:25:59 GMT

I had been itching to do something to my laundry room for months, toying with the idea of simply painting it white, but the snowball effect completely took over and turned into multiple project! One thing leads to another, doesn’t it? This easy weekend laundry room makeover was such a satisfying project!

I decided I would paint over our existing blue paint. I didn’t hate the color, I just didn’t love it. It ended up blue because I had a gallon of blue and orange we didn’t end up using with our home renovation and I didn’t want it to go to waste. So, blue it was. The whole-house renovation exhausted us and we were up to our eyeballs with trying to get our kitchen ready to move in, and I didn’t care too much about the color of the laundry room at the time.

Everything seemed so messy when you entered the room, and I wanted to to be less visually cluttered. I installed floating shelves when we moved in, but they weren’t as useful as I’d hoped, so that was another reason for the update. Oh, and the washer and dryer hookup does not have a cover. We think we have finally tracked one down through our plumber–it’s just not screwed on yet. We ordered two that didn’t fit, since ours somehow got thrown away in the middle of renovation. I feel a little like Indiana Jones trying to locate this treasure.

Paint

I painted all the walls Sherwin Williams Pure White. It was between that and Alabaster that Chris Loves Julia just used. It’s probably not actually pure white and that’s just the name of the color! I just liked the stark white for the laundry room. Our kitchen cabinets are also bright white (not creamy), so it seemed like a good choice, since it’s right beside them. My other favorite white is SW Dover White that we used on our fireplace.

Shiplap Wall

Our laundry room was the perfect place to try a shiplap wall. The walls were not perfect from removing wallpaper, so I didn’t feel too bad about covering up perfectly good drywall.

Since I wanted to do this project myself, without hiring a pro, my options were more limited with the shiplap application. I don’t have or know how to operate a saw and don’t feel comfortable nailing boards correctly onto the wall, so got creative.

We used peel-and-stick vinyl tile to create faux shiplap and it couldn’t have been easier! You can read all about the process in this post .

I wanted to paint the shiplap wall black (also complementing our black and white kitchen cabinets), and chose Sherwin Williams Black Magic. I love it pops and how real the shiplap looks under the black paint.

Mudcloth Accent Wall

I didn’t decide to do this accent wall until I had already started the shiplap, and the idea was stuck in my head once I saw Simple Life Pastor’s Wife post about using these modern wallpaper stencils by Cutting Edge Stencils . I did it by hand to save money, since I already had the paint in-hand and it was a relatively small area.

After looking for inspiration photos online, I created my own pattern. I went with a black pattern on the white wall near the garage door and I love how it turned out. It was so much fun to create this mudcloth accent wall and it totally looks like wallpaper. I’m already thinking of how I can do something similar in another area of our house.

Shelving

I bought some black wrought iron shelf brackets at Hobby Lobby to mount to the wall behind the washer and dryer. They will hold a 12″ board, so they should provide better storage for all my laundry items.

Accessories

I love my huge framed wipe-off board on the black wall. It has a nice contrast against the black shiplap wall and it helps me stay organized by keeping everything in one place. I rehung all our baskets and storage items on the walls. We use white coat hooks for storage of jackets and shoes behind the door.

I did spray paint our hanging wall baskets gold, along with my W A S H letters on the wall. I liked how it kept things cohesive and the gold is such a fun accent.

For the rest of the wall art, I just pulled things from my personal collection, that fit the color scheme. And, of course, I fit in a couple cactus prints, since I am crazy for them.

Easy Weekend Makeover

One person could easily complete every part of this makeover over a weekend. The painting really brightened things up; the shiplap wall would fool anyone, and the mudcloth accent wall may be my favorite part! I’m so excited to have our laundry space be so beautiful, since so many people walk through and I spend so much time here! Please use #greysnailmakes if you are inspired to try any of these projects when you share your photos so I can check it out.

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Faux Shiplap Wall with No Nails

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 04:11:37 GMT

Mudcloth Pattern

My biggest obstacle to hopping on the shiplap train was actually getting the boards cut and attaching them to the walls correctly, but guess what??! I found away around traditional construction and no one will ever know the difference unless I spill the beans. Check out how my DIY faux shiplap wall with NO nails!

Thanks to Chip and Joanna, shiplap is everywhere–not just in older homes where it’s uncovered years later under layers. People are now putting it in their new construction homes. I finally found the perfect area for a shiplap project in our laundry room. The walls were already somewhat imperfect from removing a highly textured wallpaper, so covering them was a great option.

What color shiplap?

When I think of shiplap, I think of Fixer Upper ‘s bright, farmhouse spaces with white boards. They’re taking over the world, so who am I to question their choices?

I’m still a big fan of white, but darker colors used on walls, built-ins and cabinets are also intriguing for me. Chris Loves Julia does a beautiful job incorporating darker tones into an overall, light and airy home. I fell absolutely in love with their dark shiplap accent wall with giant tree trunk art print, so that’s kind of the inspiration behind my design choice for this project.

I don't know how to use a nail gun or electric saw

Getting the boards cut and onto the wall was my biggest hurdle in building a shiplap wall. My husband is awesome at a lot of things, but being a handyman is not one of them. And I don’t have or know how to use a saw. I would never get any work done if either of us had those skills, because I’d always be doing a project! Be sure to check out my full laundry room makeover, featuring a mudcloth accent wall , shelving and more!

Even if I could have gotten the boards cut and onto the wall, there were still other things that would need addressed (snowball effect, anyone?). The trim around the door and baseboards would need to be adjusted. We would also need an electrician to move our light switch and electrical outlets. So many obstacles–I had to get creative!

Seriously, NO Nails!

In order to avoid all the problems mentioned above, I chose to use peel-and-stick vinyl tile I found at Lowe’s for $1/piece. They came in 4-inch and 6-inch faux wood planks and I chose to use the 6-inch boards. Since this was a vertical application, and the adhesive isn’t SUPER sticky, I reinforced the adhesive with Liquid Nails. I bought the squeeze kind that’s basically like a toothpaste tube, so I didn’t have to mess with a caulk gun (I hate those!!). I just put several dots of the Liquid Nails on the board right before sticking it up.

You’ll want to push the boards on evenly and with firm pressure, but they stick well, so it’s not hard. I left approximately 1/8″ (or the width of a coin) between the boards, so they would look like actual boards in shiplap.

Cutting the Planks

You’ll want to stagger the boards when putting them on the wall, so the seams aren’t perfectly lined up. I just started at the bottom and worked my way up to the ceiling, cutting boards, as needed, to fit on each row. S cissors will do the trick in a pinch, but just use an Exacto knife to score the top and bend to break it. It's the easiest.

Painting the Boards

First, I taped off the ceiling, baseboards, and surrounding walls with Frog Tape. Working with vinyl is a little different and not all paints will adhere to the material, so I primed the boards with Valspar Stainblocking Bonding Primer/Sealer. I think Kilz also makes a product that will work. Once that was dry, I started with the black. I used an angled 2″ brush for the trim and corners and rolled on the rest. It took two coats of latex paint in Sherwin Williams Black Magic.

It was pretty easy to use the roller to get into the gaps between the boards. I painted the wall black before starting, so the gaps wouldn’t be the old blue wall color, but I don’t think it was necessary. Since the planks are very thin, the roller gets in between them well, and you can easily use your brush to touch up any stubborn areas. You can still see the grain of the “wood” under the paint, which was exactly what I was going for.

Easy, No Tools Required Shiplap

I’ve seen a lot of tutorials for how to create faux shiplap, and they all have a nice effect, but if you’re in the same boat as me with an idea that you just can’t shake, and don’t have the necessary skills or tools to create one with wood, this is the way. A DIY faux shiplap accent wall is just a trip to Lowe’s and afternoon away! Share your photos with #greysnaildesigns so I can check it out.

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DIY Mudcloth Accent Wall

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 03:42:21 GMT

Mudcloth Pattern

I’ve been seeing mudcloth everywhere lately in home decor–pillows, art, wallpaper, you name it. It’s usually a simple pattern in neutral colors, so it’s pretty easy to work a little boho flair into your home. A DIY mudcloth accent wall is an easy project you can complete to get the look of wallpaper at a fraction of the cost.

After starting our laundry room makeover and faux shiplap wall , I was scrolling through Instagram and saw Simple Life Pastor’s Wife stenciling her hallway in this cool, modern chevron brushstroke pattern. She ordered the stencil at Cutting Edge Stencils , so naturally, I spent the next two hours trying to decide which would work best for my project. I love the look of wallpaper, but hate the idea of having to remove it when I’m tired of it.

Budget Constraints

I woke up super set on having a patterned accent wall for the laundry room. Since I had just completed the painting and shiplap wall , I really hated to spend more money on a stencil that would likely be used for only one project. (I also have another project in my mind I’d like to keep some money back for. See, my wheels are always turning!) I decided I would just paint a pattern myself, since it was a small area, and I already had the paint, anyway, so it wasn’t any extra cost. The stencils are large, so I think they’d be more ideal for using on a larger scale wall.

I’m still eyeing a couple stencils and would definitely recommend using one for a larger wall. Not everyone is comfortable painting patterns on their walls, and it’s a perfect solution for that.

DIY Mudcloth Accent Wall

Having an accent wall wasn’t on my radar until I saw THAT photo, so I was pretty up in the air about which wall to do. I had originally planned to do a black shiplap wall, and the rest of the room white. I thought about doing the wall behind the washer and dryer, but there’s an electrical box on that wall. Plus, it was much harder to access with the washer and dryer in place. I liked the idea of the having pattern around the garage door and seeing it when we go out, so I decided to roll with that.

I was planning to do a similar chevron brushstroke pattern, since I knew it would be simpler, but had a last minute change of heart. That mudcloth pattern was tugging at my heartstrings and it seemed like the perfect location for a fun pattern.

I took screenshots of several inspiration photos online and went from there. Working one row at a time, I started painting my pattern from the top down, keeping it as straight as possible. I tried to keep a healthy mix of sizes and textures for the wall.

Painting the Mudcloth Pattern

I taped off the corners and baseboards with Frog Tape and got to work. It would have been smart for me to pencil in some guidelines with a ruler or yardstick and level, but I was itching to get started. Our level has also been MIA for months. A little imperfection is fine; it kind of adds to its charm. I repeated some lines, but didn’t have a specific repeated pattern. I used a small paintbrush, and created a mix of dots, lines, and shapes and tried to keep everything pretty evenly distributed.

Try It!

Whether you tackle this DIY mudcloth accent wall freehand or using a stencil, it’s makes a big impact for a small amount of money and effort. It probably took me about 2 hours to complete and I think it’s just what our laundry room needed!

I used this same process to paint over another framed art print and love it, too! I love to shop my house and rearrange things or find a new way to use something old!

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DIY Leather Drawer Pulls

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 03:15:16 GMT

Leather accents are everywhere in home design. I see leather upholstered stools tucked under kitchen islands, cognac chairs and couches, and even on furniture. An easy way to update your existing furniture or cabinets is to make your own DIY leather drawer pulls at home.

Supplies

· Piece of sturdy leather

· #10 brass screws

· #10 brass washers

· #10 washers

· #10 bolts

· Utility knife

· Pen

· Leather hole punch

· Ruler or tape measure

Steps

First, you’ll need to cut your leather into even strips. You can use your ruler or straight edge to mark the line with a pen, then cut the leather with the utility knife. Your strip need to be long enough that you can grip them when they are looped around so they actually function as drawer pulls.

Fold the leather strip in half, put the brass washer on the top portion of the leather where you’ll attach it. Mark the center with a pen. This is where you need to put a hole through both layers of leather (for the screw to go through).

If you’re smart, you’ll use a leather hole punch for this. However, I did not have this tool, and I didn’t have any luck drilling a hole in it, so I had to get creative. I’m a little embarrassed to say what I used to make the holes, but I used a cuticle nipper and just snipped away until I had holes. It wasn’t pretty, but it got the job done.

Putting it Together

Fold the leather strip in half, with the holes lining up, one on top of the other. Put the brass washer over the hole, then thread the brass screw through the washer and both layers of leather.

Then, put the screw through the hardware hole on your furniture. You’ll need to put a flat #10 washer on the back, then the nut on top of that. Tighten the front screw with a screwdriver until it’s secure.

I choose to just get silver washers and nuts for the back of the hardware, because it was cheaper than the brass ones. It didn’t really matter for them to be brass since they were on the inside of the drawers and no one will ever see them. It cost me less than $10 for the leather and hardware to make 3 leather drawer pulls.

Dresser Makeover

I used three leather drawer pulls on my dresser makeover, and mixed them with modern brass knobs on the lower drawers. I love the mix of hardware and it totally transformed the dresser. You can easily update a piece of furniture with these DIY leather drawer pulls.

I'm happy to say these drawer pulls have held up well for months, so they are very durable!

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Easy Recycled Abstract Art

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 02:59:15 GMT

I found myself needing some large-scale art for a master bedroom makeover, and there wasn’t anything left in the budget for buying a piece. I had to get creative, so I decided to create my own easy abstract art.

Recycle & Upgrade

I am always buying things at for our house that I don't necessarily love, especially for the long term, but that I might be able to use in another way later. I like finding things I like the shape or size of, or maybe even just the frame.

I bought a large, 2″ thick 20×20″ canvas at Hobby Lobby on sale for $10.00. It was a print of a buffalo in a landscape that I just never found a place for and I wasn’t really crazy about. It was a good size and great candidate for redoing.

Add Texture

I used this same method for my DIY styling boards for flat lay photos.

I used a little bit of drywall mud do add texture to the canvas. You can buy a small tub at Lowe’s . You don’t have to buy it in bulk; it’s near the painting supplies. You just get a small trowel to scoop it onto the canvas and spread it like icing all over the front and edges of the canvas, leaving some areas thicker than others. Remember, you WANT irregular texture.

The mud will also make it easier to paint over the existing print and keep it from showing through.

Once it was dry, I painted one coat of Sherwin Williams Alabaster on top. I used it because it was on hand and the same as the wall color. You can let it dry overnight, but on a 90-degree day outside, it just took a few hours.

Abstract Pattern

I chose to use neutral colors for this piece, and felt like a bold, black pattern would be perfect. I kept it a large-scale design, instead of doing something smaller, so it was a major focal point for the wall and entire room. I used black acrylic paint and a flat paintbrush to do everything. I did a couple of irregular loops, going off the page on both sides in a thick, bold line.

I used a fairly dry brush to create some lighter strokes mirroring the same bold loops, also going off the page. Then, I added more round loops going the opposite direction off the corners. I put some large dot patterns in several areas, layering them over the loops. I used the end of the paintbrush to add smaller dots in areas.

There are no rules in creating your own art, but if you want to make easy abstract art, pick out your color palette before you start. That way, you have an idea of what you’re going for. Adding texture can really enhance a piece and make it look more professional. Don’t skip this step. My best advice is to work slowly and take a step back after each addition. Loose, organic shapes don’t have to be perfect, and geometric shapes can also create a fun pattern. Most of all, have fun with it and hang your easy abstract art with pride!

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Crazy Simple Abstract Art

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 02:44:10 GMT

I already talked about how I created some easy and crazy simple abstract art from an old canvas, but this project takes literally 5 minutes!

Supplies

· Picture frame (preferably with mat)

· Craft paint

· 8.5×11” computer paper or white cardstock

Instructions

I used black acrylic paint for my art, but any color is fine. You could use acrylic or watercolor paint, but acrylic will yield a bolder look. I painted the entire 8.5×11” white cardstock with a simple pattern. Think dots, crosses, plusses, dashes, etc.

Once the paint is dry, put it in a frame and hang it on the wall or set it on a table.

I love prints like this with a large mat, but the key (whether you’re using a mat or not) is to make sure your pattern is running off the edge in all directions.

Simple!

This crazy simple abstract art is almost too simple for a tutorial, but it’s a no-brained, basically free way to create some fun art for your home.

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Carved Wood Pottery Barn Headboard Hack

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 02:34:59 GMT

Inspiration

M y inspiration for this budget carved wood headboard was a long time coming. I have been CRAZY for white, carved headboards since I first caught a glimpse of Audrina Patridge and Corey Bohan’s bedroom last year. It is oozing with California cool with its modern, boho style, and my absolute favorite part is the big statement headboard.

After looking at different options for a twin bed or headboard for a little girl’s room for a while, and I stumbled upon an ad for Pottery Barn Dorm featuring Mandala Carved Faux Headboards for $179.00. The headboard hung on the wall, behind the bed, which was pretty cool. Unfortunately, it was more than I hoped to spend for this project, so I went on to other options when it an idea hit me!

Supplies

· Large white carved-wood wall art

· Staple gun

· Long staples

· Tube of Liquid Nails

· Clamps

· Small white pre-primed boards (1.5-3.5″ work great)

· Flat white spray paint

I found a large white 30″ x 30″ carved wall hanging at Hobby Lobby for the main portion of the headboard. It already had D-ring hangers mounted on the back to make for easy hanging.

Putting it Together

A twin bed is around 40″ wide, so you need to add some length to the main piece on either side to fit the bed, so I bought a 1.5″ and 3.5″ board at Home Depot and had them cut each into two 30″ pieces. You’ll have leftover.

Once I had all the pieces, I started with the four pre-primed boards and sprayed them with two coats of paint on all sides. Once dry, I overlapped the 1.5″ slightly over the 3.5″, and put together with a good squirt of liquid nails and clamped tightly for 24 hours.

It’s tricky to get the boards attached to the main piece. I used liquid nails, but couldn’t get it clamped properly, so I stapled them into place with the staple gun. Be sure to get longer staples to get a better hold. I used a LOT of staples to get is as secure as possible. An electric staple gun would make this a breeze, but my regular old one got the job done.

Now you’re ready to mount your budget carved wood headboard to the wall, which just involves hanging it in place over the bed. Easy peasy! I’d love to see your take if you decide to try this project, so please share on Instagram with #GreySnailMakes.

If you liked this project, please check out my DIY upholstered headboard, too!

Conclusion

Since completing this project, I have actually found reasonably priced carved wood wall hangings for around $50.00 at HomeGoods . You could simply hang one of these pieces above your twin bed and call it a day. However, if you can't find something large enough, you can add some width with my process.

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DIY Upholstered Fabric Headboard

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 02:12:03 GMT

Upholstering a Headboard

I love the look of an upholstered headboard, so I made a couple for our kids’ rooms. It’s a relatively easy and not-too-expensive project and provides a really nice finished product. Plus, I love finding things to do with fabric that don't require sewing, because that's a skill I don't have!

Supplies

You need a the following supplies and tools:

Thin wood board cut to 36 x 38” (for a twin size)

Quilt batting

1-2” foam (to cover the front of the board)

Fabric (to cover front of board & wrap around a few inches)

Staple gun & staples (make sure they are long enough)

Process

Lay the board down on the floor and roll out your foam to cover the entire surface. It’s okay if you cut it and piece it together like a puzzle. It don’t matter because we are covering it.

Place your quilt batting over the top of it and wrap it around the edges on all sides. Now, carefully turn it all over, so the foam side is facing the floor. Starting on one side, pull quilt batting tight and staple into place on the back. Work your way around, repeating this process along the edges. When you are doing a corner, kind of fold the batting a little to make a nice corner without bunching.

I prefer the 2” foam over the 1”. It’s a little more expensive, but it makes a thicker, more comfy headboard—think reading in bed and leaning back. It also makes the headboard look more substantial. I’ve done it both ways.

Once you’ve staples the foam and batting into place, repeat the process with the fabric. Be sure to iron or steam the fabric first and lay it down on the floor, pattern side down. Now, center the foam side of your board on top and start pulling the fabric around d the edges and stapling into place.

You’ll want to be sure to keep the wrinkles out of the fabric on the front and make sure everything is even. This is even more important with a pattern like stripes or checks—a more abstract, irregular pattern is a little more forgiving.

Do the same thing on the corners, kind of folding pleats into the fabric so it rounds the corner better before stapling. Once you’ve made your way around, you’re done!

At this point, I’m done with my headboards, because I just set them on top of the box spring and press the mattress up against it so it sets straight on the wall. You could attach some sort of “legs” on it, too, or find a way to hang it from the wall, but I haven’t found this necessary.

I’ve used upholstery fabric and thicker canvas for the headboards I’ve done and find the thicker, sturdier fabric yields the most professional result. Even if all you have is a bed frame, this headboard will make it look like a real bed!

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DIY Butterfly Wall Art

Sat, 25 Apr 2020 06:14:05 GMT

Inspiration

Again, the Coronavirus stay-at-home orders have me seeking distraction and comfort. I find comfort in making things and art, so when I ran across this adorable project, I HAD to find a way to do it. Lucky for me, Lauren at Blesser House had me covered. All the butterflies are available for download so you can print them at home. All you have to do is sign up for her email list, and trust me, she has ALL kinds of good stuff for you, so don't miss it!

Lauren shard this DIY modern Victorian butterfly study on her blog, along with all the artwork, but I didn't have a large enough shadow box, so I had to get creative, since nothing was open.

Process

For my first butterfly study, I wanted something big, so I found a 2' x 2' piece of wood I had laying around. It was a light tone, which I liked, so I just white washed it with some acrylic paint and a wet paper towel. It took about 2 coats for me to get the board how I wanted it, a white tone with the grain still showing through. Once it was dry, it was time to start on the butterflies.

Literally, all I did was print out the butterflies on white cardstock, although I've since done them on 32# laser jet paper and it was fine, too. I carefully cut them out with small, sharp scissors and folded their wings in, so they look real. Then, I figured out the configuration of butterflies I want based on their size, color and shape. Once I got a pleasing arrangement, I placed them on the surface evenly in rows, so they all lined up, and secured them with a little dot of hot glue in the middle.

Let's do it again!

I loved the first butterfly study so much, I decided to do it again! This time, I had a frame that had been on the wall with the fake family in it for months. haha It was the perfect place for something else! So, I printed some smaller butterflies, followed the same process as above, but this time, attached them to a piece of blush cardstock. Adorable!

Use old art to make new art

One of my favorite tricks is to use old art to make new art. Sometimes I find super cheap (think 90% off) art prints at Hobby Lobby. Sometimes I like the art, other times I don't, but I love purchasing these pieces, because you can use them for a little while, as a filler. Then, later turn them into something else! It's often cheaper to reuse a piece of ready-made art than start from scratch.

You can see the antelope print below. I thought it was cute, but not something I was sentimentally attached to. I loved the frame and wood background, so I immediately thought of using it for another piece of art! I put a couple coats of white chalk paint over the antelope and background and it was good to go. I put some small butterflies on it and it looks so good!

I used this same process to paint over another framed art print and love it, too! I love to shop my house and rearrange things or find a new way to use something old!

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DIY White Hobnail Lamp

Sat, 25 Apr 2020 05:29:32 GMT

The Fox Hunt Lamp

The fox hunt lamp has been in my house for years. It was my husband's when we got married and it really looked good in his house, but I've moved it around from room to room here and never landed on a place where it looked right. It's a cream-colored ceramic base with a scene of a fox hunt on it. It has a pretty, angled black shade. It's really a nice lamp, so I hated to get rid of it, but it's just not my style and has never been living its best life here.

Inspiration

Ah, the inspiration. I find SO much inspiration, but it doesn't always strike like this one did. As soon as I saw the Instastory from Blesser House, I knew just what I wanted to makeover. I already made a gazillion butterfly studies from her free printable and tutorial on her blog. She showed this giant vase she found at a thrift shop that she totally transformed with these little half-circle wood beads and spray paint. I was blown away, but I immediately thought of the fox hunt lamp!

How To

This is almost so easy you don't even need a tutorial, but I will share my process, in case you want to recreate. I bought some half-circle (well, really sphere) wood beads on Amazon, super glue and white spray paint. It's in the middle of the Coronavirus pandemic, so I'm ordering everything. I was so excited when the beads and spray paint got here, I could hardly wait to start.

You just start super gluing the beads on the surface of the lamp (or vase) in even rows. Mine are spaced about 3" apart. Go around the whole lamp, making sure everything looks pretty even. I just eyeballed this; I didn't measure.

Once the half-spheres are glued on, take it outside and spray paint it in thin coats. I had a can of cream spray paint in the garage, so I decided to start with that. It took several coats to cover the hunt scene on the lamp, so don't get impatient. Also, I checked my Amazon and the white can wasn't coming for a few weeks. I actually LOVED the cream, so I am totally happy with my choice, but I still want to do this on something else in white. I have tons of the half-spheres, so I can glue them on everything! haha

Musical Lamp Shades

After the paint dried, I brought the lamp back inside and it was done! I initially put the black shade back on, but later played musical lamp shades in the den and switched them around and I love the new look!

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DIY Wood Tassel Key Ring

Sat, 25 Apr 2020 04:46:38 GMT

Inspiration

Sitting at home during the COVID-19 stay-at-home orders had me scouring the Internet for things OTHER than Coronavirus. At least after the first two weeks, when I consumed all things related to Corona. After that, I needed a mental brake.

I've followed Jill Makes on Etsy for a long time, admiring her brightly-colored jewelry, but I saw she was offering kits to make your own creations--how cool! She has a paint-your-own earring and paint-your-own tasseled key chain kit. I was planning to link the adorable kits, but it looks like her shop is taking a break--probably to catch up with all the orders!

Process

I had so many ideas for the wood rings that I ordered some of my own on Amazon. Along with some key rings. The first set didn't work because they were too small, so I did a little research and found some that were a screw-on cord, so the size of the ring wouldn't be an issue.

I put out some wax paper on my counter and got to work painting. I painted some solid white to start and others, I painted the pattern directly on the wood. I really like leaving some of the light wood showing through! I mostly did a mix of abstract styles and patterns with different color combinations. I just love projects like this, because I LOVE putting different colors together. It's one of my favorite things about my job designing wedding invitations.

Drying

This got a little tricky, since I tried to dry them flat first and I encountered a lot of smudges. I discovered it was better to hang them to dry. You can see the advance contraption I used above.

Tassels

I don't have a tutorial or in-process shots of making the tassels, but there are tons of helpful tutorials on Pinterest. I used yarn I already had to make mine and mixed up lots of fun colors. I attached mine directly to my screw-in key chain.

Sealing

Once the paint was dry, I took them outside and sprayed them with my favorite varnish. Each side got a couple good coats to make them nice and smooth and add to their durability. This was my first time using the low odor can and I loved it!

The finished product

Once everything was dry, I started to put the key rings with the tassels I made and boy, are they cute! It's fun to make these for yourself, or even gifts for your friends and family. They are very inexpensive and easy to make and the sky is the limit for design!

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Another Garage Door Update with Minwax Gel Stain

Sun, 19 Apr 2020 00:08:35 GMT

Another Garage Door

I debated for a couple years over whether or not to stain our detached garage door to match our faux wood garage door on our house. The dilemma was this--the door (and garage itself) is pretty new, works well and isn't really an eyesore, so the idea that I MIGHT mess it up weighed heavily on my mind.

Ultimately, my itch for a change won. Plus, I really wanted to figure out how to get rid of those decorative scallops.

Process

Since I wasn't staining the trim (I didn't want to get it on the siding--eek!), I taped it off so I could JUST stain the door. I started with a brand of grey gel stain I found at the craft store. You can see what it looked like. I was hoping to just add a little grey tone to the "wood" look, but I wouldn't recommend using this product for this purpose. Live and learn.

Minwax Gel Stain

Minwax Gel Stain to the rescue! I moved on to my trusty Minwax (Chestnut or Walnut is both great!) and got to work. I brushed on a coat with a straight 2" paint brush. You can see we're getting there, but not there yet. Don't stop here; the magic is about to happen. It's pretty much always going to take at least two full coats to get a result you're happy with.

Another Coat

This is the time I start to get excited, and relax a little. I can see the end result is in sight and feel pretty confident I haven't messed up our perfectly good garage door. Oh, and you can see my regulation safety ladder in this photo. Please disregard and do not use that for your ladder.

The Windows

Amazingly, and much to my surprise, the decorative window inserts easily popped out. It was just a plastic piece that held them in under a rubber edge. I popped them out in about five minutes with zero tools, so that was exciting.

Once they were out, I thought the windows needed a little something. They just looked so blank.

Faux Window Panes

I measured and marked the center of the top and bottom of each window. Then, I marked the right and left sides of each. I used blue painter's tape to mark off an area to make a vertical stripe on each window approximately 1/4" wide. I used white chalk paint to paint the area with two coats. I repeated the process once the paint was dry with the horizontal stripes to create faux window panes.

I thought about painting them on the inside of the garage door, but decided to paint the faux panes on the outside. They look just fine a year later.

Gel Stain

I've used Minwax Gel Stain successfully on so many projects. It's easy to control and works perfectly on a vertical surface, since it's a gel consistency and won't just run or drip down the surface. I even use it in place of traditional stain in many projects. I used it the first time on the garage door of our house and STILL get compliments years later. I'm always shocked people actually think we just replaced it with a wood door. It works well on metal and you can use it over a painted surface. It sets on top of the surface you're staining, instead of soaking in like a traditional oil-based stain.

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Beautiful Budget Bathroom Update Ideas

Thu, 16 Apr 2020 20:27:11 GMT

Budget Remodeling

A bathroom remodel can get expensive quickly, and sometimes that just isn’t in the budget. Yet it drives you crazy to think about living with that hideous bathroom!! Even the ugliest outdated baths can have great style with a these budget-friendly updates. These beautiful budget bathroom remodel ideas are super easy and make a big impact.

Hire out what you can't do

The only professional job we hired out in this bathroom was the tiled shower. We could not do it ourselves and the original surround was in disrepair, so we selected a budget-friendly, white subway tile with dark grey grout. You can see what a big difference several small changes can make in creating a bright and airy space from a dark and dreary bathroom.

Wallpaper

If you have wallpaper or a border you want to remove, it’s going to be a tedious task to remove, but it’s so worth it. There are all sorts of ways to remove it, so find what works best for you.

We had a border in this bathroom we removed before painting our walls Sherwin Williams Light French Grey. It’s a light, very neutral grey and goes with almost everything.

Painting

There’s nothing that can transform a space like a fresh coat of paint. I recommend going with light colors for a small space like a bathroom. Most of the time, natural light is pretty limited and it’s a place you really don’t want to strain to see. If you are just painting on drywall, easy peasy. If you have wall paper, that is a little more of a challenge.

Painting Vanity Cabinets

We had a wood vanity cabinet with gold knobs, and we didn’t plan to replace it initially, so I removed all the doors and hardware (knobs & hinges) to paint it. I used a dark blue-grey chalk paint, so I didn’t have to use primer. Chalk paint is awesome like that. Everything got two coats, and I finished with a coat of varnish. I used a Rustoleum spray paint in a hammered bronze that looks black for the knobs and hinges.

Dirty Tile Grout

If you have tile in your bathroom, you don’t want to miss this trick. This budget bathroom remodel idea might be my favorite. The grout is often the dirtiest looking area. Magic Erasers can do wonders for cleaning floors, but they can’t always get grout perfectly clean. All you need for this project is a bottle of Polyblend GroutRenew from Home Depot. It comes in a variety of colors and I selected Oyster Gray for ours.

Working in small areas, apply it to the grout joints and rub it in with a toothbrush. You can use a rag or paper towel to wipe any excess off the tile. GroutRenew is a colorant and sealer, so it colors your existing grout and seals it at the same time, so it’s easy to clean. It’s also stain and fade resistant. Ours still looks great four years later.

Frame a contractor-grade mirror

You know what I’m talking about. Everyone has seen one of those bathroom mirrors just clipped up on the wall. It really leaves a lot to be desired in terms of style, but don’t worry, this is easy to fix.

I recommend getting trim from Lowe’s or Home Depot to frame your mirror. Measure what you’ll need and purchase the correct amount. They can even cut it for you there. The best thing to do is buy the foam (yes, FOAM!) pre-painted white trim, along with corner pieces. I’ve also done this with wood trim, but it is SO. Much. Heavier and very difficult to keep in place while the glue dries. You just glue the trim pieces on top of the perimeter of the mirror with Liquid Nails and tape them in place with blue painter’s tape. Do the same thing for the corner pieces. Let everything dry for at least 24 hours before removing tape.

You may have to carve out a little of the trim where the mirror clips are, so your boards lay flat, but this is super easy with the foam.

Spray Paint

Get a screwdriver and remove the door handles. Spray them with an oil-rubbed bronze spray paint designed for metal. I just used a Rustoleum brand and did two light coats and they look great. We had older brass knobs and I love how the black pops on our wood doors.

Peel-and-Stick Tile

Peel-and-stick tiles are so easy to use and very inexpensive. I think they have even more styles now, so I need to check those out. I like to put them under our bathroom cabinets, so we have a nice, new clean surface for storage. They are easy to cut and piece together. If you have any water spots to hide or damage in the cabinet, this covers up all evil. Now they even have pretty wood plank styles to choose from.

Other Tips

I like to use a good-quality (think Target) white shower curtain, and hang it high. It adds height to the room, even in a room with 8-foot ceilings and white is a clean canvas for the rest of the room. I love a waffle weave, so it adds a little texture, but overall, I don’t love a busy shower curtain, so skip the patterns here and save them for towels. This is a beautiful white waffle weave curtain by Threshold at Target.

It’s smart to keep artwork and decor simple and clean in the bathroom. No baskets of potpourri and tissues or furry toilet seat covers. Number one, I don’t like to clean around a lot of doo dads in a bathroom. I found this large black and white print at Hobby Lobby on clearance. I also like to change things in here out a lot, so you might find a fun holiday print in here during Christmas time.

Storage Tips

Towels are an easy and inexpensive way to add a pop of color or pattern. Plus, you can switch them out all the time. Feeling pink? Or more of a zen spa day? Change your towels to change the style of your bathroom.

Instead of a towel bar, I just like to use an over-the-door hanging rack. I find my family is more willing to hang up their towels if they don’t have to fold them over a towel bar and they dry easily.

I hope you’ll try some of these beautiful budget bathroom remodel ideas that fit your budget to inject some style into your space without breaking the bank. You know I love a transformation with a lot of bang for your buck. Be sure to check out my whole house makeover with limewash, or tutorial for a faux wood garage door. You won’t want to miss either! Psst, you’ll love the cost!!

Feel free to share photos with #GreySnailDesigns.

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DIY Faux Wallpaper

Thu, 09 Apr 2020 20:31:38 GMT

That Crazy Wallpaper Lady is at it Again!

If you didn’t already know I am crazy for DIY faux wallpaper, see our laundry room, kitchen backsplash and foyer accent wall . Check out all those and you’ll know my love for budget-friendly FAUX wallpaper is deep. See, I love making our home pretty, but I love it even more when I can create an impressive space without spending lots of money. And now I may be the crazy faux wallpaper lady.

Phase 1: Bathroom remodel on a budget

My latest project was our bathroom. When we moved in, we did several little projects to refresh the bathroom. We’ve lived with those for about four years. You can check out all the before photos here: beautiful bathroom remodel ideas on a budget.

Phase 2: Update and more budget bathroom remodeling

It was time for a refresh and I wanted white, so all the walls got two coats of SW Alabaster. All the wall decor in there now is white, black or neutral, and I like bathrooms pretty neutral. It’s easy to add color with towels and accessories. I painted the vanity again, in a greenish black, but it can definitely come off as a warm dark grey.

From the beginning, I knew I wanted some sort of patterned wall on the back wall with the window to add some interest. I couldn’t decide what to do for a while, so I didn’t do anything. The longer I left the bathroom all white, the more I knew it needed something to add a little interest. I liked the idea of using black, grey, tan or some combination of the three. It was time for a DIY faux wallpaper project!

Finding Inspiration

Lately, I’m really inspired by simple line drawings of flowers and botanicals. I’ve seen them in wallpaper and on wedding invitations. I love the loose, organic style of the drawings, usually done in a black line. That was my starting point for this wall. I sketched out some branches from inspiration photos on a piece of paper. I used it to draw larger scale versions of the illustrations on the wall in pencil. I just did a nice mix of branches, with some going up, down and sideways.

Formula for painting a pattern

Starting in the corner beside the toilet, I began. I figured I’d get progressively better at painting, so I wanted the best branches to be in the most visible positions. I chose to use mostly black, with a few tan branches scattered into the pattern. I think it makes it look even more like actual wallpaper by adding that second color! I used latex paint for the tan, thinned out with water, and black acrylic paint thinned well, also. When you’re painting a more detailed and curved pattern, it is much easier to work with paint that goes on smoothly and water will do the trick.

The pattern goes off the wall and branches and leaves peek around the wall and window

If you do a pattern like this, you’ll want to have it going off the walls on all sides, so it looks more like real wallpaper, instead of something you drew on inside the borders of the wall. There should be partial branches and leaves going off the walls and just peeking onto the walls. The easiest way to neatly do this is to tape off the adjacent walls, baseboard and ceiling so you can carry your brushstroke beyond the wall without spoiling the surrounding surfaces. When it’s dry, just peel it off and voila! A beautiful patterned wall is revealed!

The bathroom looks wider and larger now!

Be brave! Try it!

It can be intimidating to paint on your walls. On some level, I felt like a toddler who got caught coloring on the wall with crayons, but guess what?! These are your walls and you can paint them. If you mess up, just paint over it! No big deal. It’s likely if you wait to find an idea or color combination that really inspires you, you’ll probably love it. Don’t just look in home decor for ideas–check out wedding invitations, clothes, wall art and more. A Beautiful Mess does a great job of sharing lots of wall painting and faux wallpaper ideas.

Several walls I painted in a faux wallpaper pattern were more geometric, and this was, by far, the quickest to complete. Even if it doesn’t involve straight lines, don’t worry–it may actually be easier.

If you do decide to try out painting your own DIY faux wallpaper, I hope you’ll share your photos and either tag me or use the #GreySnailDesigns so I can check it out and tell you how great it is!

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Painted Faux Wallpaper

Thu, 09 Apr 2020 20:14:58 GMT

Paint Your Own Faux Wallpaper

After painting a mudcloth accent wall in our laundry room and black and white pattern on our kitchen backsplash, I was feeling pretty confident about painting patterns on walls and ready to tackle some other areas of our home. I knew it was easy to paint your own faux wallpaper, so I tried to think of some other areas where it might work, and the foyer seemed like the perfect choice. You can also learn how to paint your own faux wallpaper, a project that is a fraction of the cost of the real thing. Psst, no one will know the difference!

Choosing a paint color for dark areas of your home

Our hall and foyer were painted SW Netsuke, but they have always appeared darker than I liked. My parents’ house has the same color in their foyer and hall area, but they have a two-story foyer with a large window, in addition to more natural and artificial light, so it looks like a completely different warm color there. It’s light and airy, but at our home, it takes on a more greenish tone.

Our hallways don’t get much natural light, at all. They only have one can light in each section, so it’s never very bright. (Note to self–add more can lights someday.) Our foyer doesn’t let much light in, unless the door is open, so it’s not the brightest room, either. One of the things I disliked the most about this area what that it always seemed dark.

Cheat Sheet on Paint Swatches

I knew we needed to go with a lighter color, but picking one can be tricky. I went to the paint store and picked some white samples and flipped them over to check the LVR, which stands for the Light Reflectance Value, or the percentage of light a paint color reflects. The higher the number, the lighter the color will appear in the room. Checking the LVR is a smart and easy way to make sure the paint color is going to serve you well in the area you want to use it. I specifically wanted to brighten our hallways and foyer, so I chose Sherwin Williams Alabaster. Alabaster first came on my radar when Chris Loves Julia painted the downstairs of their home that color.

Accent Wall: Take 1

I wanted to add some warmth to the foyer, too, so I selected a warm tan for the main wall and added a small, simple white striped pattern. I liked it, but I didn’t love it. In fact, I lived with it for a few days before I decided it needed to go. Overall, it just made the foyer too dark and wasn’t the light, airy feel I was going for, so it became white when I painted the rest of the hall!

If at first you don’t succeed, paint the wall again

You know the old saying. Or, was that how that goes?? Everyone makes mistakes, and it’s okay to change your mind about something you JUST did! Don’t live with if you don’t love it just because you did it. This was an EASY fix!! It took two coats of Alabaster white and probably not more than an hour. Once it was white, I knew I made the right choice–so much BRIGHTER.

I loved the warm, sunny color, but I still wanted to add some interest and texture, so I started thinking colors. I had already done a black and white mudcloth pattern in our laundry room and pattern for our kitchen backsplash, but this time, I wanted to bring in a warmer color, so I went back out to the garage and grabbed that tan bucket of paint! See, it didn’t go to waste, after all.

Painting Faux Wallpaper using a Craftsman Laser Level

Before you start to paint your own faux wallpaper, you’ll need to measure for your pattern. This time, instead of lining the entire wall, I decided to try out my new Craftsman laser level . I didn’t want to have to erase or wipe pencil lines off an entire 8′ wall. First, I marked off 6″ sections across the entire wall, since I was going to paint a similar striped brushstroke pattern, like the kitchen backsplash , but in a tan color.

I used the magnetic pushpin on the level to stick it into the wall on the 6″ marks, which were in the middle of the wall. I could spin the level up or down and use the nice, clear line to guide my painting. First, I used a large round brush to make wide, dark hash marks. After making my way across the wall, I went back with a smaller, dry brush and added feathery strokes in between the larger marks to add some texture and interest to the design. I left the middle of the row blank where I was rotating the laser level and went back at the end and filled those marks in. You may want to patch the holes and paint over them before adding the design (I did), but I could see where you could get by without doing it.

Next time I do a design requiring vertical lines, I think I’ll try positioning the laser level at the top or bottom and projecting the line all the way up or down the wall. It was a little tricky because I was working in bright sunlight and it was harder to see the projected line, so I found working at a time the sun wasn’t on that side of the house worked best.

Are you sure that’s not wallpaper? No, I painted my own faux wallpaper!

I absolutely love the white and tan color combination. It is so fresh and bright and definitely on-trend. I love that beige and tan are having a moment. I’m sure my mom is happy, because she hates grey.

I find myself almost wondering if it actually IS wallpaper! It totally looks like wallpaper and having the non-uniform strokes really helps. I priced removable wallpaper and even for a small area (like a bathroom wall), it was expensive. Painting your own design really is easy, especially with the right tools and a little imagination. If you decide to try to paint your own faux wallpaper, please be sure to share it with the hashtag #greysnaildesigns so I can check it out!

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French Provincial Dresser Makeover

Thu, 09 Apr 2020 19:57:52 GMT

Second Hand Score

I bought this dresser and two twin beds from friends who were moving for $50.00! It may have been the friends and family discount, but I was super excited to have it. I’ve seen this style of furniture my whole life, but I never knew what to call it, so I turned to Google. I have seen it called by the name Dixie DuBerry, but that may be an actual brand, so think it can be most accurately described as French Provincial.

Originally, I was looking for boy’s furniture, but after seeing the lines of this, it was clear it was much better suited for a little girl’s room. That was fine, since I needed a dresser for that, too.

Process

I did a base coat of light gray chalk paint on everything. The chalk paint serves as a primer and there’s no need to sand or prime. You can paint that stuff on anything. I just grabbed a couple jars of chalk paint from Michaels, but I don’t remember the brand. My favorite brand at Michaels is Martha Stewart Chalk Paint, so if they make the color you want, it’s worth the extra $3.00! I think it’s only $11.00-12.00 for 8 oz., anyway, and you can always use a 40% off coupon. They have several colors in the store.

I took out the drawers, removed the hardware, and painted the drawer fronts and dresser. I put this up on paint cans, so it was really easy to paint the legs and bottom edge well.

Finding the Right Tools

I used a brush that was recommended for chalk paint, but after talking with my mom, the expert painter and artist, (who is usually right, wink), I learned there was a better way. She explained that I was actually using a stencil brush, so I bought a 2″ paint brush, which makes much smoother strokes and is so much easier to use.

Two coats of chalk paint covered everything well. I thought about leaving it as it was, but was itching to try a black glaze. It was super hard to apply the glaze evenly on the curves and bends of the drawers; it wanted to drip and smear and was generally a mess to work with. Looking back, I would not recommend that technique on something with those lines.

Drawer Liners

It's the little things that make a piece. I lined the drawers with a fun floral printed scrapbook paper, and although unnecessary, since the drawers were clean and in great shape, it makes me smile when I open them. So in my book, that’s a win. Scrapbook paper is a cheap and easy way to add a secret pop of color inside a drawer or behind a shelf.

Wax on or wax off?

Even though I love chalk paint, I don’t love wax. I prefer using a couple coats of varnish for a nice hard finish and no significant wait time for curing. It’s also easy to care for and clean.

New Hardware

To finish off the French Provincial dresser chalk paint makeover, I spray painted the original handles a metallic gold and love the girly touch they added. This is a smaller dresser, so it fits in a variety of spaces in my home. I love that they grey and gold is feminine for a little girl’s room, but still neutral enough it could find a home in another room at some point.

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DIY Painted Bone Inlay Nightstand

Thu, 09 Apr 2020 19:44:36 GMT

Bone Inlay Inspiration

I created my own DIY bone inlay nightstand with our existing furniture and a little paint, and saved hundreds dollars. I’d been eyeing bone inlay furniture all over online and itching to find something that would work in our home.

I am totally gaga for this gorgeous black and white dresser at Anthropologie, and loved the bright blue and white combo of one featured in HGTV Magazine. HGTV has 15 beautiful splurge-worthy pieces in this feature. (Beware, may cause online shopping frenzy).

Stenciling

There are definitely plenty of lovely bone inlay pieces to buy, but stenciling your own design is also a pretty good hack. You still get the same look without the hefty price tag, and it doesn’t really require you to be an artist.

Cutting Edge Stencils offers two different size stencil packages and seems to yield a beautiful design. I purchased mine at our local Michael’s store and chose a Martha Stewart brand stencil. It’s available on Amazon for $12.99, and the pattern is called Moroccan Inlay.

Prepping the Old Nightstand

This is a basic (almost) black wood Ashley Furniture nightstand. It came as part of a set with a dresser and full bed. I also made over the dresser! It never really fired me up and it was just a pretty boring piece, but is a nice size and has great drawer space–plus it’s in good condition, so it’s the perfect candidate for painting. I should also add that since we already owned it, it was FREE as in I didn’t have to go buy a piece to paint.

Chalk Paint Base Coat

I LOVE using chalk paint as a base coat. There’s no sanding or deglossing or priming required–the chalk paint can act as your primer. I knew I wanted something light gray or tan for the background color, and luckily, I had a nice greige in my stockpile. Sometimes I will use latex paint over top of chalk paint, but since I had the right color in chalk paint, I used it. You’ll need 2-3 coats total.

I actually really liked this painted solid greige in this room, but this piece was meant for more.

Filling In the Old Hardware Holes

I didn’t snap a picture of this, but you can see it in the dresser project. I chose to change the position and style of the hardware of this piece, so I needed to get rid of the existing drawer pull holes. I used Minwax Wood Filler from Lowe’s to fill in the holes. You’ll want to do this before painting, or at least after your base coat.

Simply squirt enough of the paste into the old holes to fill them, then scrape off the excess with a straight edge. You might need to add a second coat after the first dries if it’s not even, but it’s pretty forgiving. You can also sand it with sandpaper after it’s dry if you need to get it smoother.

This was one of the things that used to really stump me when making over a piece of furniture. Now, I know I don't have to be limited to the existing hardware positions!

Stenciling the Pattern

The stencil comes with several different designs and I recommend cutting each one apart so they’re easier to work with. I started with a dash-dot pattern around the edge.

Position your stencil and use blue painter’s tape to keep it in place; then dip a stencil brush (stiff brush with a flat head) into the paint you’re using and blot off any excess. Using firm up and down motions, apply paint in the blank areas of the stencil. It’s important to use as little paint as possible so it doesn’t seep underneath the stencil and spoil your pattern. You don’t want to have much to touch up in the end, so it’s best to be super careful while you’re stenciling.

I used white chalk paint for my project, but acrylic paint would be fine, too. It’s just what I had on hand.

From there, I used the largest portion of the stencil for the top and sides of the nightstand. It had a little border from the edge of the stencil and I just added in some extra leaves once it was dry to fill in the areas and make it look for like actual bone inlay.

For the drawers, I used a flower for the center, with the large stencil for either side. I used the corner piece for all the corners and then used a portion of the leaf design to fill in the blank areas. Don’t be afraid to just use parts of the stencil if the whole design is too large.

Sealing & Varnishing

I used a satin varnish I had on hand to finish this piece. I do not ever use wax, even with chalk paint, because I prefer varnish. I have tried the gloss and matte version of Liquitex and it’s still my favorite. 2-3 coats is plenty and will provide a nice, durable finish. I get mine at Michael’s and can almost always find a 40% or more off coupon.

New Hardware

I found some clear quadrifol hardware at Hobby Lobby on sale for $1.47/knob! I love that you can still see the bone inlay design underneath and it definitely gives the nightstand some character. I have since updated the hardware again to a gold-wrapped white bone bar.

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Handpainted Kitchen Backsplash

Tue, 31 Mar 2020 02:43:42 GMT

Backsplash Makeover

This DIY painted kitchen backsplash is a great, stylish alternative for the interim period before going for the big project, or for someone who doesn’t have the skill, expertise or budget to execute a tiled backsplash.

It can easily be completed in an afternoon using supplies you already have around the house. You could even leave the wall color and paint a pattern using craft paint if you don't want to purchase supplies.

Our kitchen backsplash area is just painted drywall. I actually love the color of our kitchen walls (SW Rookwood Sash Green), but wanted an update. I still wouldn’t rule out trying to tile the backsplash area myself, at some point, but an electrician is a necessity, so it automatically makes it a larger (and more expensive) project.

Removable Kitchen Backsplash

I recently discovered vinyl backsplashes, which are super cool. It’s made of the same material they use to wrap cars, so it is waterproof and durable. It is also removable. You can have any design printed if you have access to a print shop, or purchase one online. They have so many gorgeous designs that I was having a really hard time choosing.

My favorites were white and black tile and a terrazzo pattern. It usually comes in a roll, but some companies offer tiles. A vinyl backsplash is definitely more economical than a tiling, but still would have been at least a couple hundred dollars for the area we were covering.

Hand Painting

I was really wanting some immediate gratification and wanted to spend as little on this project as possible. I liked the black and white color palette, because it went with our black and white kitchen cabinets, but I really couldn’t decide which vinyl pattern I liked best. I decided I would paint my own “wallpaper” pattern on our backsplash area to see how I like the color combination, and worst case scenario (if it looked terrible), I could put a vinyl backsplash over it.

Well, turns out, I LOVE it! I literally spent no extra money to do this project, since I had all the supplies already from our laundry room makeover . It is such a fun pop of color and pattern and really looks like wallpaper.

Steps to DIY

Tape off your countertops and cabinets well! You do not want paint on them. I did mine VERY carefully with Frog Tape and did not have any problems.

I first painted the entire backsplash wall (including the drywall surrounding the window) black(SW Black Magic), my background color. Once that was dry, I got my ruler and measured and marked every 12″. Then, I went back and marked every 6″. You could just mark every 6″, but that’s how I did it. I also drew a pencil line to be sure to keep everything straight. You could also use a laser level, but I didn’t have one at the time.

I used a small round brush and SW Pure White to make my pattern. I went through and made larger white strokes first, alternating the up and down direction of each row. After I finished, I went back and added smaller strokes in between the existing strokes with a fairly dry brush, so there appears to be more texture in the design.

Be sure to stand back every few rows and make sure everything looks the right size and consistent. You do want to be consistent with everything so it all matches pretty well. You don’t want one side to be smaller than the other.

Overall, this probably took less than 2 hours, so if you have the confidence to paint on your wall, you should try it out and tag me in the photos or use the hashtag #greysnailmakes to share.

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Faux Wood Stain your Garage Door

Tue, 31 Mar 2020 02:23:17 GMT

Minwax Gel Stain Transforms Garage Door

We’ve all seen these gorgeous wood or faux wood garage doors, complete with hardware. But who wants to spend over $1,000 when your existing garage door works perfectly well and replacing it just isn’t in your budget? I have the solution: stain your garage door. Well, actually, two solutions.

Add Faux Hardware

This is literally the easiest upgrade ever. Go to Lowe’s and grab a kit with decorative metal hardware that will transform your plain old garage door into a carriage house door. And get this, it’s all magnetic, so it’s a total no-brainer to install, if you can even call it an installation. We got our kit at Lowe’s a couple years ago for around $40.00, but I see that they have them online now for even less. Lowe’s kit is a great quality, and I can’t speak for the others, but they might be worth a try. Check out these at Amazon for under $20.00.

Stain your Metal Garage Door

I wasn’t crazy about the color of our garage door, mostly because it had a permanent discoloration that you couldn’t wash off and a little dent. The color also brought out my least favorite part of our brick (the yellow tones). I thought about just painting it, because I was slightly nervous to try the staining process I’d seen all over Pinterest, but figured if I messed it up, I could always paint over it!

Choosing a Stain Color

I started with a quart of Minwax Gel Stain in Chestnut. Be sure you find the GEL stain, because regular wood stain won’t work. Gel stain is specially formulated to work on metal and vertical surfaces. There are a variety of colors, but I wanted something warm, but without red undertones. I found it at our True Value store, but it’s also on Amazon. It’s not on the shelf at all stores, but readily available online. Walnut is also a great color, too.

A foam brush didn’t hold up more than a couple strokes on the hard door, so I switched over to a 2″ paint brush. It actually worked much better, as well as creating a more natural look.

Basically, you’re just going to follow the “natural grain of the wood” when painting it on. Don’t just start on the left and move to the right. Start with the squares and paint the perimeter of each. Then, move on the the actual squares and paint those left to right on each. You can fill in the rest, going up/down or left/right, depending on where you are painting.

You’re going to need two layers. Don’t worry if it doesn’t look great after ONE coat; it won’t. Wait until you put on that second coat and the real magic will happen. I switched over to a walnut color to have some variation and make it look more natural. Feel free to mix up your colors.

I wish I had more photos of this process, but I never intended to blog about it. It was also cold outside, so I was trying to hurry. After having interest in our garage door after sharing photos of our lime washed home, I wanted to share this easy and economical project. I since stained our detached garage door, and may do a full tutorial with pictures.

Our door has been stained almost two years, so I think it’s holding up super well. This was about a $50.00 fix, so well worth the money and effort. You can expect to complete the project in 1-2 days, depending on how much time you want to spend per day. I’m surprised to hear people who have been to my house multiple times thought we just bought an expensive new garage door! Boy, did we fool them!

If you decide to try this out, I’d love to see your project. Please share with the hashtag #GreySnailDesigns.

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Master Bedroom Makeover

Tue, 10 Mar 2020 19:10:41 GMT

Master Bedroom Makeover

Before our master bedroom makeover, I’d been wondering what to do to our master bedroom for a while. When we moved in, I chose to have it painted in Sherwin Williams Krypton. I didn’t love the color in that space. We had more of a farmhouse aesthetic for a while, then I changed things up. There was still always something missing to me in that massive room.

I felt like no matter what I did, it just wasn’t pulled together and cohesive. I put pictures on the wall, but they just felt stuck up there. The long, massive walls were hard to deal with for me. Our mismatched furniture probably contributed to this, but you know by now, I don’t do matchy-matchy. I love having different pieces work together and don’t typically choose to have things perfectly symmetrical.

I was finally ready to just go for it and change things up. It took me a while to get my confidence in tackling this room, especially since we had paid someone to paint it!! But, I got over that and got started gathering ideas. I should add that this was a BUDGET makeover, so I used and redid a lot of things we already owned.

I started out by pulling some things together in a vision board. I knew I wanted a neutral wall, and was leaning toward whites, creams and light beiges. An accent on the far wall as a focal point was a must. Deep greens, grays, black and gold accents had a soft place in my heart. I was annoyed at our crowded nightstands, so I wanted to free up space by using sconces for lighting.

Paint Color

I chose Sherwin Williams Alabaster, which I used in both bathrooms and the hall. It’s a warm and creamy white—not stark. I also considered Dover White, which is a little bit creamier and would have been lovely, too.

I wanted to incorporate some moodier tones, too, so I settled on a mid green gray for the wainscoting.

Board and Batten

After staring at the same wall for five years, I finally decided to add some interest to one of our walls with some DIY board and batten. I used much of the same materials and technique I used in our no nails shiplap wall, and you can read about all the specifics here.

The lower portion of the wall was painted a dark color (Station Gray) , and I have to say, I love using green as a neutral.

Above, on either side of the window, I added an easy-build ledge shelf with a mix of art prints and a diy large abstract art piece I made from an old canvas.

Lighting

One of my must-haves for this room was sconces for beside the bed. I went back and forth between black and brass and swing arm vs. fixed globes, but price ultimately determined which I chose. Most pairs of sconces I looked at were $100/set, but I found a great option on Amazon for $50/set. They are black with brass accents and have great style. They were relatively simple to install. You can hard-wired them in, but I chose to just use the plugs.

Under each sconce, above the nightstands, I have some 5-minute bold art prints.

Furniture

We didn’t purchase any new furniture, but I totally redid a nightstand and dresser, using a bone inlay stencil on the and new paint and hardware for the dresser. I repositioned the hardware holes to fit the new drawer pulls, and used a mix of modern gold cylinders with leather pulls I made myself for just a few dollars. Now I can hardly recognize these pieces!

Bedding

I switched out our pink coverlet for our old beige quilt, so a FREE update there! It’s more greige, actually, and has a small white with greige pattern on the back. I love using something that’s reversible, because it looks really good when the bed is turned back. It also makes it easy and fun to mix it up when you change the sheets. I can’t really decide how I like it best.

Shop your House

I may do an entire post on this, but if you’re on a budget, this is a great way to outfit a room without spending a dime. I picked up things around the house (both currently using and not using) in other places and brought them in to style everything. Some things stayed, others didn’t, but the ones that stayed were things that I loved MORE in this room than where they were.

I spray painted a silver lamp metallic gold, so it went a little better in the room. Basically, I grabbed anything that I thought MIGHT go in the room and brought it in there. From there, I decided what would stay and what would go. Think about moving things around that were already in the room and find a new spot for them. I updated the nightstand and dresser by painting, and created some easy and high-impact abstract art for the wall from an old canvas. I also made 5-minute black and white geometric art prints, and have tutorials for both that ANYONE can do!

FYI, I did not buy ANY new furniture, art or accessories for this room!

Shelving

I made my own ledge shelf for the wall to the right of the window. I love that I can easily and quickly change out prints, photos and decor without leaving any nail holes! A ledge shelf is a modern way to display art and something anyone (and I mean ANYONE) can make. I detail the whole process in a blog post and I plan on making more for our home already.

Your Dream Room

In designing your ideal room, address a few things that will make your life better and easier, along with some things that will make your space more beautiful.

Our existing nightstands were overcrowded, so I chose sconces to free up table space. I wanted a place to display more art and photos, so I made a shelf and eliminated unnecessary lamps. I knew I wanted a modern, cozy aesthetic, and dreamed of a bright, airy room with some darker, moody accents. There are still things I can think of that I’d like to do in the master bedroom.

I feel like I achieved what I was going for in this master bedroom makeover. I also enjoy the fact that spaces in your home are fluid and can keep changing as you find and develop new things you love.

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Rope Rainbow Wall Hanging Kit

Thu, 05 Mar 2020 20:38:10 GMT

Rope Rainbow Wall Hanging Kit

I am SO SO excited to introduce a DIY Rope Rainbow Wall Hanging Kit to the shop !! I’ve already blogged about how obsessed I am with making them and even posted a complete tutorial for you, but I just shipped out my first wholesale order of them and wanted to share.

Materials

Inspiration for Kits

Cheyenne of Hipster Reinvented on Etsy approached me a couple months ago about whether I offered kits to make fiber art rainbows. I didn’t have any at the time, but told her I’d work on something and get back to her in a few weeks. I figured out the details and packaging and soon had my first wholesale order!

Cheyenne has all kinds of cool, modern signs in her shop for your home, and plans to sell the kits at a California craft show in November, so I hope it’s a huge success. I did three different colorways for her–neutrals, traditional ROYGBIV, and pastel.

If you decide to order a kit or try it on your own with my tutorial, please share on social media with #GreySnailMakes.

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Limewash your Brick House

Sun, 01 Mar 2020 23:40:39 GMT

Limewash your Brick House

Hmm, I have an idea!

Have you ever wanted to limewash your brick house? I have frequently admired painted brick homes, but never wanted the maintenance or expense of having our brick house painted, and I sure didn’t think I could do it MYSELF. I’d just say, our brick is fine, just not something I would have personally picked out. We added window boxes, painted the shutters, but nothing made me crazy about that brick. My most disliked feature was the yellow patches all over the brick. I kept seeing our brick on other older buildings around town, and the final straw was after I discovered we had the same brick as our 1970s Wendy’s.

I love following Young House Love and listening to their podcast. They had a big discussion about whether or not they should paint their brick colonial home white. Long story short, they used this special masonry paint by Romabio and painted it white. And it looks great. Still, I thought it wasn’t for us. UNTIL I saw a Romabio post on Instagram talking about their Classico Limewash product.

Romabio Classico Limewash

Cue the music. This product is A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! It can be used inside (on something like a brick wall or fireplace) or outside on brick or stone. I scoured the Internet, Pinterest and Instagram to see every photo, and even read all 200 reviews on the Home Depot website. I was convinced this was the answer I was looking for to transform the outside of our house and bring it into the modern era.

Romabio makes a product called Classico Limewash, a slaked-limewash paint that’s totally breathable and doesn’t flake or chip. It actually calcifies to the surface and becomes as hard as rock. It will patina with the weather over time, but you can always touch it up, if you want. It’s designed to be durable with very low maintenance.

Oh, and if you don’t like it, you can power wash it off within 5 days. So there’s your insurance policy.

It easily cleans up with water (not like paint!) and if you get any on your windows, gutters, railings, or shutters, just get a wet rag and wipe it right off. It’s also totally safe for plants!

Color

It comes in seven colors: 3 whites (Bianco is bright, Avorio is soft, Cristallo is cream), 1 gray (Nube Grey), and 3 beiges (Riposo, Toscano, Tropea). I think they’ll even mix custom colors.

After much agonizing over color, I decided on Riposo Beige. Originally, I wanted to use Avorio White, but later thought Cristallo might be better. I was a little concerned with how it would look with our siding (that we are not changing right now), so I selected Riposo Beige. All the colors have a matte, chalk-y finish, so they all look somewhat white.

I ordered mine online from Home Depot, but I believe you can find it on Amazon, too. Some Home Depots carry Avorio White and Bianco White in the store.

Application

The consistency is similar to peanut butter. The instructions call for mixing it 1:1, with equal parts limewash to water, and mix it well with a drill mixer. (You just buy a mixing bit that fits into your drill and turns it into a Kitchen Aid mixer). I just scooped out the desired amount into a 5-gallon bucket, added the water and mixed it.

You simply spray your brick or stone surface with a garden hose, then brush on the limewash. You kind of have to go left to right, then up and down to get it into all the mortar joints. After 30-60 minutes, when it begins to dry, you can use a hose to spray off any areas you want to look more distressed.

Many of the inspiration photos I saw had pretty opaque limewash, with areas of distress. I thought for our home, I preferred to be able to see more of the variation of the brick color underneath, so I tweaked the recommended formula some. I probably used a ratio closer to 25 (limewash): 75 (water). It was very forgiving. If I mixed it too thick, I just rinsed that area quickly and added more water. If it was too thin, I added more limewash. It took a little finesse, but it was pretty easy to get it right and I mixed multiple buckets, since I did a little at a time. Just keep this in mind if you decide to limewash your brick house.

I did have a few areas that got more limewash than the rest and looked like spots. I tried spraying them off several times, but that wasn’t cutting it, so I just used a wet sponge to remove the excess in certain areas and that did the trick. It was a little more time consuming, so I was careful not to get too much in any area.

Quantity

Each gallon of limewash is supposed to cover 450 square feet. For our 2,300 square foot house, I should have purchased about 5 gallons to cover everything. It comes in a large 6-gallon bucket for $250.00, or you can buy it by the gallon for $50.00. Now, remember, there are windows, doors, garage doors, so not every inch is going to be covered. I decided I was better off to order it by the gallon and purchased five gallons total. That way, if there were tubs I didn’t open, I could just return them to the store.

Dilution Ratio

Since I was diluting it more than recommended, I ended up ONLY using THREE gallons for our ENTIRE HOUSE! That means, this only cost $150.00 (limewash) + brush ($40.00) + drill mixing bit ($8.00), for a total of $198.00. So for under $200.00, we totally transformed the look of our house!

After

I did about 90% of the painting myself over the course of several days, with some help with the ladder and hose. You could easily do an entire house in 1-2 days, or over a weekend. It would go even faster with more than one person (and brush!), but I really preferred to keep the application more consistent by being the one who applied it. If you were using a more opaque application, that might not have been as important. I’d say this is a great DIY project if you have a one-story house; it would be a more difficult with a two-story, and probably one I would not have tackled myself.

Weather

This project began in early May, so the weather was in the 60s-70s. I worked one day where the sun was shining and it was a little bit warmer and it was quite a bit more difficult to keep the bricks wet. I actually found I preferred to work on a humid, overcast day so I didn’t have to keep spraying the wall so often.

My biggest tip is to just paint on one coat and let it dry. Don’t paint an area twice or it will be too bright/thick and be spotty once it’s dry. A nice, even coat is what you’re going for.

Limewash Transformation

If you want to limewash your brick house, it will completely transformed your home. We have gotten so many compliments from neighbors and have had people stop by to see what we were doing. I have even had a few people say they are thinking about doing it now. I can’t recommend Romabio Classico Limewash enough and would love to hear what you think! Check out my limewash project for terracotta pots if you like the house! What would you limewash?

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Rope Rainbow Wall Hanging Kit

Tue, 25 Feb 2020 21:51:16 GMT

Rope Rainbow Wall Hanging Kit

Welcome! You can gather all the materials for making a rope rainbow wall hanging on your own, but we also offer a cute little kit you can purchase at Grey Snail Baby . I hope you enjoy making them, and be sure to tag me or use #GreySnailPress so I can see what you make!

Materials

materials for DIY rope rainbow wall hanging

• 1/4 – 5/8″ thick rope

• 18 gauge wire

• Colored yarn

• Curved embroidery needle

• Embroidery floss

• Sharp scissors

• Tape (Scotch or masking)

• Wire cutters

Step 1

Lay out the rope in the basic shape and size rainbow you want, and cut each piece with SHARP scissors.

Cut rope to desired lengths for your rainbow

Use your wire cutters to cut pieces of wire that cover the top curve of each piece of rope. The wire won’t show; it’s just there to help the rainbow keep its shape, so you don’t need much to reinforce it.

Tape each wire in place at the top curve. (You can also secure each end if you wish).

Wire reinforces your wall hanging and helps the rainbow hold its shape

New Paragraph

Step 2

Now you’re ready to start wrapping! You’ll just repeat this process on each piece with the colors you want. You may start with the top or bottom piece, but I prefer to start with the largest piece of rope.

Tie one end of yarn to secure it before wrapping.

You’ll want to start a few inches above the bottom of your rope and tie a knot in one end of the yarn to secure it before you start wrapping. Once it’s secure, you can start wrapping, making sure there is no rope showing through. You can wrap it in one layer, or overlap in places.

Wrap the yarn until you have a mirror image with the first side, keeping the yarn area even when looking at it head on. Tie it off with the knot on the back. I usually designate the side with the wire the “back” of the rainbow.

Step 3

Take the piece of rope next in line and put it in place to see exactly where you should tie your first knot before you start wrapping. You’re just going to repeat the process in Step 2 for each piece of rope.

If the ends of your yarn aren’t lining up, you can always even them up once you start putting the pieces together. I find this happens a lot, even when taking care to line everything up carefully. If one end is too long, just snip the end and unwrap until it’s even, then tie it off in the back again. If one end is too short, just tie on and wrap another small section.

Step 4

Putting it all together is my favorite part. Thread your curved embroidery needle with a couple feet of your embroidery floss and tie a knot in one end. Starting with the smallest length of rope, push your needle through the floss and a small portion of rope and pull it through. Take that stitch to the next piece of rope.

Then, you’ll go back to the smaller piece and repeat the process, creating zigzag stitches. When you finish securing those two together, move on the the next piece, and so on. If you run out of embroidery floss before sewing all the pieces together, simply tie it off on the back wherever you need to and repeat the process with a newly threaded needle.

I like to make a hanger toward the bottom of the rainbow so it’s hidden on the wall. I just use a little embroidery floss knotted off on one side of the rainbow and make a loop by making a knot on the other side.

Step 5: Combing it out

Once you have the shape of your rainbow complete, it’s time to comb out the clouds. Unravel the rope ends completely, then use the tines of a fork to comb out the waves of the ropes really well. I like to use a dog deshedding brush to do this, but a fork works just fine!

Step 6: Trim it up

You’re almost done! After your rope is combed out REALLY well, lay the rainbow down flat and using trim the rope so it’s even across the bottom. And you’re done!

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Easy Board and Batten Tutorial

Fri, 07 Feb 2020 04:28:56 GMT

Easy Board and Batten Tutorial

If you’re wanting to try out board and batten in your home, but don’t want to call (or pay!) the carpenter, follow this easy board and batten tutorial and do it yourself!

After completing an entire shiplap accent wall with no nails, I knew making my own board and batten wall would be easy breezy, and the master bedroom was the perfect place.

Inspiration

Board and batten is all over the internet. You see it all the time in entryways and halls, but you’re also seeing it in different rooms, too. It creates texture and character in an otherwise boring space. I still love white board and batten with a colored wall, but I keep seeing more and more of the reverse–dark board and batten with lighter walls. You can see my inspiration for the entire bedroom, and you’ll notice I like the deep greens and moodier colors for this project.

Peel-and-stick Vinyl Flooring

I used wide peel-and-stick vinyl flooring, reinforced with Liquid Nails, for our faux shiplap accent wall in our laundry room, so I immediately thought of the same product for this project, but chose thinner, 4″ boards.

Starting at the bottom, I put a row of horizontal planks setting on top of the baseboard. I peeled off the backing and put several dots of Liquid Nails the entire length of the board before pressing it firmly into place.

For the vertical pieces, I wanted them 20″ apart and marked where each should go on the wall before positioning them on there. If you were going to use regular boards and nail them into the studs, you’d need them to be 16″ apart to hit the studs, but that’s not necessary since we aren’t attaching them to the studs.

I put one more horizontal layer on top, going across the width of the wall.

You may need to cut and piece together some pieces to fit your wall, but I’ll explain below my favorite new cutting method.

You might want to tape everything in place as you go, but it’s definitely a good idea to do it at the end to give your Liquid Nails a chance to dry. Once it’s dry, you can use a small nail to tack down any stubborn areas that don’t want to lay flat against the wall.

Priming the Vinyl

I chose to prime the vinyl boards before I put them on the wall, but you can certainly do it after. You’ll need to use something specially made for vinyl or latex paint will not stick to them. I like to use Valspar Bonding Primer available at Lowe’s. I do think it was quicker to paint them before.

Cutting the Vinyl

You CAN cut the vinyl flooring with scissors, but I learned it is SO MUCH EASIER with a box cutter. Just score it where you want to cut it and it will snap in two!

Painting the Wall

You’ll need two good coats of paint on the board and batten portion of the wall. I painted approximately to the top of the vinyl board. It wasn’t critical that I use painter’s tape to keep the top edge precise, because I put painted trim pieces above it, but you bet I taped off the sides of the wall.

For colors, I chose Sherwin Williams Alabaster for the walls, and Station Gray for the board and batten. It’s a dull, medium to dark green with gray tones.

Trimming it Out

I purchased 4 pieces of MDF 1×2″ boards at Lowe’s that were already primed white. The MDF is easy to cut and super lightweight, so it’s perfect for this project. I cut mine at home with my new Craftsman hand saw. Once you measure and cut the MDF to the appropriate length, you can position it into place above the top row of vinyl flooring and attach it using Liquid Nails. The piece touching the vinyl should be flat against the wall.

It’s definitely easiest to paint these pieces before you attach them to the wall. It would be fine to stop here, if you want to keep a very simple look, but I wanted to add one more trim piece to the top.

For my top and final trim piece, I used another 1×2″ turned the other direction so it comes out from the other piece. I attached it with Liquid Nails, but you can definitely use some finishing nails to tack it down to the studs if it’s not laying well. I love how it finished it off.

Painting the Baseboard

I wasn’t originally planning to paint the baseboard of the accent wall, but ultimately decided it would be better to paint than not. I felt like the white baseboard on the bottom broke up the wall visually and if it were all one color, it would look longer and taller, and more complete. You can see it both ways. Sometimes it takes looking at something for a while to figure out what makes it look best.

Do it Yourself!

I absolutely love this room now, and this wall is the focal point. This easy board and batten tutorial can be used to recreate this look anywhere, and I plan to try it again somewhere.

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Simple Orange Slice Holiday Wreath

Fri, 07 Feb 2020 04:06:12 GMT

Modern Holiday Wreath

I made this simple orange slice holiday wreath for around $10 and I couldn’t love it more! It only took about 10 minutes to put it all together and you can do it, too.

One of my favorite tricks for saving money on holiday decor is to use clippings from your own yard! I love snipping greenery for a wreath and just having a few stems or branches in vessels around the house. Boxwoods are a great choice, too, and last the entire holiday season.

First things first, you’ll need to make the orange slices. I had extras on hand from making garlands, but you can use them for all sorts of arrangements.

Thinly slice oranges and arrange them on a baking sheet and bake at 175 degrees for 3-4 hours until the middles are darker and dried out.

I found this gorgeous set of bells from the Christmas display at Hobby Lobby and centered the entire wreath around it. For the wreath itself, I bought an 18” steel ring from Hobby Lobby in the macrame aisle for $3.99. It was silver, so I sprayed it gold.

For the greenery, I went to my yard and took some clippings from an evergreen bush and attached them to the bottom of the ring with wire, and further secured with hot glue. I just covered the bottom half, since I wanted to keep the top open so you could see the simple gold ring.

Once the greenery was attached, I scattered a few orange slices around the leaves and secured with hot glue.

To hang, I just hung the wreath first, then hung the bells on top. I love my simple orange slice holiday wreath so much! I really like using unexpected color combinations for holiday decor and this one doubles for fall and Christmas so it’s a win-win!

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FABRIC BACKGROUND FOR A BOOKCASE

Thu, 12 Dec 2019 04:24:49 GMT

Adding a fabric background for a bookcase is easy and can turn your boring shelves into something really special. I’d never experimented much with fabric before this, so it’s truly an easy project for a beginner.

Bookcase Before

I bought a pair of dark wood bookcases from Facebook Marketplace that were in great condition. One went in my son’s room as-is, but there was only room for one, and I didn’t have another place for that style bookcase anywhere else, except my daughter’s room. And that dark wood just didn’t work in her light and airy bedroom.

Painting the Bookcase

First, I removed the back panel of the bookcase, since there was no need to paint it. It was screwed on with several short screws, so I just removed them and set them to the side in a safe place. I chose to use a quart of chalk paint from Lowe’s tinted to a creamy white to paint the bookcase and finish it with Liquitex Satin Varnish, but it would have also been a good candidate for spray painting.New Paragraph

Fabric

Hobby Lobby is a great place to select a fabric, so that’s where I went to find some for the back panel, and had a really hard time choosing. I was immediately drawn to this adorable cat pattern, but before I left, found this gorgeous watercolor floral on clearance, so I bought them both.New Paragraph

I tried them both out by draping them over the back panel and trying to visualize what I wanted. After much agonizing and an Instagram vote, I finally decided on the cats. I love the playful nature and colors of the pattern, so it was perfect for this project.

Attaching the Fabric

I layed the back panel flat on the ground and placed the fabric on top. I needed a small border around the edge for the screws, so I didn’t need the fabric to quite be edge-to-edge, so starting along one edge of the fabric, I kind of eyeballed it on the other, cutting it along the other three edges.

Once all the fabric was cut, I tacked it down with Scotch tape in a few places along one side to keep it in place. Then I folded it back and added a layer of Mod Podge for fabric on the panel and pressed the fabric back on top, being careful to press out any bubbles. I finished it with a layer of Mod Podge on top.

If you have any stubborn bubbles, you can put a thicker layer of Mod Podge in that area and press the bubbles out until the fabric is flat. After you finish that top layer, just let it dry!

Putting it back Together

Putting it back together

Remember those screws you set aside in a safe place? You’ll just use those to reattach the back and you’re all finished and ready to stage your adorable new bookcase! Be sure to check out the rest of this little girl’s room and the pink buffalo check wall!

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GOING DARK IN A SMALL BEDROOM

Wed, 04 Dec 2019 16:30:37 GMT

Going dark in a small bedroom can be a good idea. People sometimes think dark paint colors in small rooms can make the room seem smaller, but it’s all about picking the right color, and in this case, it was Sherwin Williams Naval.

Sherwin Williams Naval

Naval has been a favorite color of mine, since my mom used it in her dining room and kitchen years ago. It’s a gorgeous deep blue with cool undertones, and was the perfect choice for this little boy’s bedroom.

Picking Paint Colors

Picking paint colors is tricky, but it doesn’t have to be. The original color in this bedroom was a medium blue, but it had SO MUCH GRAY in it that it was very dull. Nothing stood out on the wall and it seemed very dark. There’s not a ton of natural light in the room, anyway.

I went against my initial instinct to go super light and ran in the opposite direction. Naval is about as dark as you can go, but it’s rich hue is a beautiful backdrop for furniture and wall decor. Choosing a more saturated (NOT grey) color was important in here. I was THISCLOSE to painting the room a deep green, but ultimately decided on navy.

A rich color like navy provides the perfect backdrop for wall art and furniture. Everything stands out so well, and you can bring in lighter colors with your accessories, so everything isn’t dark.

Be confident and go bold!

The cool, dark color recedes and makes the room look bigger. If you’re going dark in a small bedroom or other room, go ahead and go REALLY dark. Don’t choose that medium tone because it’s just going to make the naturally darker room seem even fuller. Be confident and go bold—you won’t be sorry.

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BUDGET WALL ART

Wed, 04 Dec 2019 16:30:36 GMT

Finding budget wall art can be difficult, especially larger-scale pieces. There’s no reason to give up on stylish decor, though—I have a secret to share with you.

Calendar Prints for Wall Art

I made these adorable vintage National Park posters from an old calendar. A calendar is a great place to find art to frame, and is perfect for finding multiple cohesive pieces. I LOVED these vintage prints when we had the calendar, so I saved them to use for later.

Most calendar prints aren’t standard framing sizes, but don’t fear. You have a couple of options. I was originally going to purchase 16×20 frames and have mats cut at Hobby Lobby to fit the frames. This is a great and inexpensive option, but I decided to it the mats for this project.

My prints had a nice border around them that worked for the 12×18 frames I found, so I simply cut the pages to fit the frames.

Making Gold Frames

I picked up four black plastic 12×16 frames at Michaels, but wanted a frame that would stand out more on the newly-painted navy wall. I knew just the product to use—Rubb’nBuff in Antique Gold. After removing the glass, I rubbed it all over the frames and waited for it to dry for about an hour. Then, the glass and prints were ready to go back in. You can see it makes a gorgeous metallic finish.

I placed the four prints side-by-side along the new 6’ picture ledge I made for the room. You can see the easy tutorial–it’s my favorite shelf and you can probably make one, start-to-finish, in under 20 minutes!

Navy Bedroom

I love how the gold frames pop on the navy wall. The prints are perfect for an outdoorsy or camp-themed little boys room. I can even see using them somewhere like a foyer or den! If you’d like to see the rest of this cozy, navy blue bedroom, you can check it out here.

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PINK BUFFALO PLAID WALL

Wed, 04 Dec 2019 16:13:40 GMT

I got the idea for this pink buffalo plaid wall on Pinterest, of course! After originally planning to do a hand painted floral accent wall in this bedroom, but once I saw the plaid, I couldn’t get it out of my head. I had everything, including the paint, already on hand, so this project cost me no extra dollars and that’s always a win in my book. It looks just like wallpaper once it’s done!

Before

This bedroom is actually one of my favorite rooms in the house and I adore the paint color, Sherwin Williams Sea Salt. It’s a beautiful fair shade the color of sea glass and reflects plenty of light. I was perfectly happy keeping most of the room that color, so an accent wall was a nice choice for the space.

Prepping the Wall

First, moved all the furniture and wall art off the wall. Then, I removed the outlet covers and patched any nail holes and imperfections with 3M Patch Plus Primer. It comes in a tube and you squeeze out a little on a nail hole, then use the cap (that has sandpaper on it) to smooth it out. It has primer in it, so you’re ready for paint. I used leftover white paint (SW Alabaster) from our master bedroom update for the background, so the wall got two coats.

Vertical Stripes

First, I taped off the ceiling, baseboard and side walls. I started with the vertical stripes, and wanted them to be 6″ apart, so I measured across the top AND bottom of the wall and marked off every 6″ with a pencil hash mark. I started my first pink strip about 3″ from the corner, so my corner stripe was a partial white stripe. Starting at the top, I used Frog Tape to go from the top hash mark to the bottom and stuck it down. It helps to have two people for this part.

I painted every other stripe pink with a small roller. A foam roller would be perfect for this. It looks like the white stripes are smaller, but that’s because the tape is taking up some of the space on the white lines.

Pink Shades

You need three different paint colors for this project–a white, a pink and a lighter pink. I found a great tutorial on Pinterest for this project where they used SW Comical Coral for their darkest squares, and Comical Coral mixed at 50% for their lighter shade. This is probably the easiest way to do it.

I already had white paint AND Comical Coral on hand from painting our front door, so I just mixed Comical Coral with Alabaster to create a lighter shade of pink and used it.

Removing the Vertical Tape

Once the vertical pink stripes were dry, I removed the Frog Tape. You can use blue painter’s tape, but I think the Frog Tape has a tighter seal for projects with finer details.

Making Horizontal Stripes

For the horizontal stripes, I used the same method of measuring every 6″ on the left and right sides of the wall. I taped them just like the vertical stripes, and a partner is almost essential to this step. I painted every other stripe light pink, leaving the partial stripe at the top white.

Don’t remove the horizontal tape

When the paint is dry, DON’T REMOVE THE TAPE! I left the horizontal tape, because I had to retape the vertical lines, so I could use the full-strength pink paint to make the darkest squares.

I only used one coat of each of the pinks, and it covered just fine. You might need two coats if you have a different quality paint, but a medium quality paint did perfectly with one.

Removing the tape

I removed all of the tape after it dried and it was a LOT of tape! I used nearly two rolls of Frog Tape and it made a huge ball when I was finished. It’s a good time to touch up any areas or correct any mistakes while you still have all your paint out. There wasn’t much touch up to do, but there were a few areas where my roller slipped over the tape. It pays to be careful in the first place.

Choosing Colors

I love the color Comical Coral; it’s a peachy pink and a nice light shade. I’ve seen other buffalo plaid walls done in grey, navy and black and I could see using any of those in a living area or boys’ room.New Paragraph

Easy, tedious project

This is a project anyone can do. It really is easy, but definitely tedious. I wouldn’t be excited to do a whole room, but for an accent wall, it wasn’t so bad. The taping can be tiring, but there’s not that much active time working. It’s kind of like a recipe with a long cook time. You spend more time waiting for paint to dry than anything. You can see from the progression of my pictures from day to night that this was truly an all day project.

This pink buffalo plaid wall is something you can easily and inexpensively complete in a single day. If you have white paint on hand, it wasn’t a problem to just mix that medium color at all. Just make sure you have enough to complete the job, because it’s a lot harder to try to mix that color again. If you run out, you’ll probably have to get it color matched at the paint store to get it perfect.

Be sure to check out more of the room and this easy and adorable fabric-lined bookcase diy project!